Vol 1/Issue 5 August/September 2003
To Contact: WCFRS
C/O Patti Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
E-mail: WCFRSNC@aol.com
Welcome! to the
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) newsletter, The Costal Rose with articles about growing and enjoying roses in
the coastal North Carolina area.
Suggestion and questions are
welcomed. We encourage you to submit
them to us using the e-mail or postal address listed above.
Check out our web page at: http://carolinadistrict.org/WCFRS/index.htm
President’s Message
Hi there Rose Buds!
August flew by and now September
is nearly over with autumn staring us in the face. Now the weather is cooler, your roses will be coming back, better
than ever if any managed to survive the winds of Isabel. Give them lots of TLC. Don't wander off your spray schedule. I do hope your roses are recovering from the
ravages of summer heat, black spot, and Isabel. Now that fall is nearly here, you should stop dead heading old
blooms. Leaving them will help the rose
prepare for the winter, and you might have a beautiful display of orange or red
hips during the winter.
The next meeting is in
October and we will have a fabulous presentation on propagating roses, so be
sure to come.
Enjoy the cooler weather!
Patti
PS: Rose bushes are the ultimate gift for anniversaries, “Get Well”
and birthdays or a simple "I Love You". We are now offering annual WCFRS membership gift certificates for
purchase. Combine this with a rose bush
for that special rose lover in your life.
Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a gift certificate.
We now have an official checking account, so all checks from this point
forward should be made out to the “Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society”.
American
Rose Magazine
Anyone
interested in joining the American Rose Society (includes the American Rose magazine subscription)
should mail or hand our treasurer, Kim Landis, their subscription request along
with a check made out to "Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society" so that
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose society will receive $5.00. If the subscription is sent directly to ARS, we will not receive
the donation from American Rose Society.
Mail to:
Treasurer: Kim Landis
108
Stonehead Court
Wilmington,
NC 28411-7855
Phone:
910.686.3025
"Urgent SOS"
Our Rose Garden at the arboretum is in need of volunteers. This will involve pruning, weeding and
gentle rose love & care twice a month.
I am requesting that at least 4 couples or 8 or more people volunteer to
commit themselves to help take care of the gardens from this point on because
their curator and our valued society member, Barbara Hardison, is moving out of
the Wilmington area. Please notify me
as soon as possible so that our rose gardens at the arboretum will not be
neglected. You will be requested to
help in the rose garden twice a month.
This will be a great way to learn about roses and have hands on
experience! Please consider this
because this is a very urgent need.
Contact me as soon as possible at 910.686.1871.
--Patti
Note from the Editor -
After the
wonderful rose arranging session last month, it seemed appropriate to include
some articles on conditioning and preserving roses. Here are some from the American Rose Society (ARS).
Conditioners vs. Preservatives
Consulting Rosarian Contact: Kathy Center
A reader has requested clarification regarding the use of a
floral conditioning solution (e.g. Chrysal RVB) vs. a floral preservative
solution (e.g. Floralife, Oasis or Chrysal Cut Flower Food). The concern is
well-founded because the terms are easily confused and somewhat misleading.
First, please note the use of the terms conditioning and hardening in the
previous article. These terms describe two time periods in the processing of
cut flowers. Confusion sets in because both conditioning and preservative
solutions can be used during the conditioning and hardening periods! To
thoroughly describe the use of solutions with cut flowers, let’s first
characterize the entire cut-flower process (from the perspective of a rose
exhibitor) as follows.
The Cut-Flower Process (for Rose
Exhibitors)
Step 1. The bloom stem is cut from the plant, and the stem is
immediately re-cut under tap water, then transferred into a container of
lukewarm water or solution.
Step 2. The bloom stem stands in lukewarm water or solution for a
period of time (say, 30 to 60 minutes) to maximize uptake of water. This is the
conditioning period.
Step 3. The bloom stem is refrigerated, standing in water or
solution, for a period of time (say, one to two hours) to slow the
transpiration rate to a minimum. This is the hardening period.
Step 4. The bloom stem continues in refrigeration, standing in
water or solution, until it is needed for display. This is the cold storage
period.
Step 5. The bloom stem is removed from cold storage, and transported
and/or used for display. In either case, it will slowly warm up to room
temperature during this period.
Now, the question arises: which solution is appropriate for
which time period? In general, a floral preservative (cut flower food) can be used
for all five periods, but a conditioning solution (Chrysal RVB) can only be
used for Steps 1 thorough 4.
A floral preservative contains an agent to kill bacteria,
an ingredient to acidify or lower the water pH (which makes it easier for the
stem to take up water), and a nutrient to feed the bloom. Note: Listerine mouth
wash also contains these three elements and is therefore recommended as a
home-made floral preservative.
Because a nutrient (a form of sugar) is included in the
floral preservative solution, the solution must be changed during Steps 4 and
5, every three days or so. The container must also be changed or washed with
soap and/or bleach at this time, and stems re-cut to expose fresh surfaces.
While the anti-bacterial agent fights stem decay, the nutrient promotes it, so
the situation is a stand-off or balancing act.
Now, the floral conditioning solution is significantly
different. It was designed to re-hydrate bloom stems that have been shipped
out-of-water, as commercial rose growers must do. Like the preservative
solution, the conditioning solution contains an agent to kill bacteria and an
ingredient to acidify or lower water pH, but instead of a nutrient, the
conditioning solution contains a chemical which dilates the stem cells to maximize
water up-take. Unfortunately, this chemical can do damage if stems are left
standing in it for a prolonged period of time (say, more than 12 hours) at room
temperature, therefore, the conditioning solution is not suitable for Step 5 in
the cut flower process!
The good news: roses can stand in the conditioning solution
for two weeks or more in cold storage, without re-cutting stems or changing
solution! On the down side, the conditioning solution does not provide any
nutrients, so some varieties may experience a slight loss of color in the bloom
and a loss of flexibility in the foliage during very extended storage.
Theoretically, the optimum process would be to use a
conditioning solution for Steps 1 and 2 (through the conditioning period, of
course) and a preservative solution for Steps 3 through 5, changing it as often
as required. However, for expediency, I have used only conditioning solution
for Steps 1 through 4, and tap water thereafter. Not only does it minimize the
labor of holding roses in cold storage, it tends to fix the stages of blooms,
rather than encouraging blooms to continue development, as a nutrient would do.
Note: a few years ago, dry-wrapping roses to hold them in
cold storage for an extended period of time was all the rage among avid rose
exhibitors. That was before the discovery of the conditioning solution Chrysal
RVB, manufactured by Pokon Industries in The Netherlands. If you still
dry-wrap, a conditioning solution would be ideal for re-hydration.
To summarize:
A conditioning solution is designed to maximize hydration
of a cut flower, especially if the flower has been out of water for some time.
It can also be used for hardening and cold storage, and is especially useful
for extended cold storage.
A preservative solution is designed to extend the life of a
cut flower, providing nourishment while retarding bacterial decay. It can be
used throughout the cut flower process, but the solution must be changed and
the container cleaned every three days or so, to be effective.
This article first appeared in the 2Q96
Rose Arrangers Bulletin, an official quarterly publication of the American Rose
Society; Kathy Noble, Editor.
Conditioning and Arranging Cut Roses
By Virginia Masero, Los Altos, CA
Consulting Rosarian Contact: Robin Rosenberg
Do you want to know how to keep your cut
roses looking good longer than you ever thought possible? Here is what you do.
Sugar-Clorox® Mix
Prepare a Sugar-Clorox Mix by putting
one-half cup granulated sugar and two teaspoons of Clorox in a two-gallon pail
of warm (not hot) water. This is your Sugar-Clorox Mix, which is basic to the
longevity of the roses. The sugar keeps the roses developing and the Clorox
prevents bacteria from forming and clouding the water.
Cut Late Afternoon
The best time to cut roses is in the late
afternoon. The sugars that "feed" the blooms, which keep them erect
and opening slowly, are produced early during the day and accumulate in the stems.
If picked early in the day these sugars are in the plant roots and are not
available to the blooms. It is helpful, when cutting roses, to water well the
day before.
Hardening the Roses
The cut roses are hardened by plunging
them immediately in the waiting two-gallon pail of Sugar-Clorox Mix. As you put
each rose in the pail cut off on a slant under water one inch of the submerged
stem. Cutting under water prevents a bubble from forming, which seals off the
stem from drawing water. It is important that this is done, otherwise the rose
blooms are likely to droop. Be sure to take off the leaves and thorns that
might be below the water level when the roses are later arranged.
Put the pail of roses in a cool, dark
place, like a protected patio where the roses can spend the night hardening. If
this hardening is done during the day because the roses had to be cut in the
morning to be used that day, allow two or three hours for hardening. It won't
be as effective as the overnight hardening in a cool, dark place, but it will
help to give longer life to the roses.
If the roses are to be arranged as a
bouquet in water, the same Sugar-Clorox Mx can be used. Give the roses a fresh
one-half inch cut before putting them in the vase. The cut does not have to be
under water, as the roses already have been hardened. There should be no
foliage below the water level.
If the roses are to be made into an
arrangement using oasis, soak the oasis up to one-half hour or more in
Sugar-Clorox Mix. Give at least a half-inch cut on a slant to the roses when
you arrange them in the oasis. Each day bring the water level up with the
Sugar-Clorox Mix that was used when the roses were hardened. The roses do not
need to have their stems recut after they have been arranged. The Sugar-Clorox
Mix keeps the roses developing and free of bacteria.
Any flowers or greens used in arranging
with roses should also be hardened. Be sure the container used is clean and
never placed in direct sunlight or drafts. At night it is even helpful to place
containers in a cool place like a patio or garage and let the roses slumber
through the night.
Traveling with Roses
When traveling with roses, mist the roses
with a water spray from an old spray bottle filled with water. This clear water
will help keep moisture in the petals when they might be exposed to hot sun and
air. I have taken vases of roses in oasis to New York and Hawaii and have given
a thrill to the unexpecting recipients. It made me feel good too.
Excellent Roses for Cutting
Some roses are not good cut flowers. The
old garden roses are gorgeous, but many are not good for cutting. They might
last a couple of days compared to some hardy roses that will last a week or
more when properly hardened. Here are some good roses that will give you much
joy. They are heavy bloomers and excellent for cutting and arranging.
·
Altissimo
·
Bewitched
·
Color Magic
·
Double Delight
·
Duet
·
French Lace
·
Gold Medal
·
Graceland
·
Helmut Schmidt
·
Iceberg
·
New Day
·
Olympiad
·
Precious Platinum
· Sea
Pearl
·
Sexy Rexy
·
Simplicity
·
Sparrieshoop
·
Tiffany
·
Touch of Class
·
Tournament of Roses
·
White Delight
Note on Sugar-Clorox Mix
The Sugar-Clorox Mix is not a new concept BUT the
proportion of sugar to Clorox is considerably more than used by most rosarians.
It does make a real difference. I have observed the use of this mix at our
church where the flower lady, Mary McLanathan, makes huge bouquets using up to
six oasis blocks holding many flowers, plus roses from her garden and sometimes
mine. These bouquets last all week under a skylight! She keeps the water level
up by adding the Sugar-Clorox Mix at least once or twice a day. During the week
any flowers that are spent are removed and replaced if there is a need. She is
vigilant and has made a reputation for herself for her magnificent lasting
arrangements. Bewitched, Olympiad and Precious Platinum are the longest lasting
of all the roses used.
Hip! Hip!! Hooray!!!
Rosarian Contact: Jolene
Adams - Hayward, CA
One of the rose garden's many bounties
occurs each fall as the last roses bloom and succulent rose hips form. These
hips are actually seed pods and are edible. Remember --- roses and apples are
cousins!! So the hip forms like a little "rose apple". Depending on
the type of rose, the hips will differ in shape, size, sweetness, color and
time it takes to ripen. As with all fruit, you will know when the hip is ripe
because the sides will "give" slightly when you gently squeeze the pod.
In my yard I have roses that make big, round hips that start out green and
slowly turn bright pumpkin orange. There are two other bushes whose hips are
slender and "flask" or "coke bottle" shaped and they tend
to turn reddish brown. The best and biggest hips in my yard are on Altissimo
(a climber) and Hansa (one of the rugosas).
The hip forms after the bloom has
withered, so if you want to harvest hips you must stop deadheading the roses in
August.
When I was a little girl, my grandmother
taught me to make green apple jelly. She also adapted her recipe to make jelly
from the rose hips in the fall. It's pretty simple, and very tasty. Rose hips
have from 10 to100 times more vitamin C than most natural products along with
vitamins A, E, B-1, niacin, K and P along with calcium, phosphorous and iron.
PREPARATIONS
If you want to try this winter ritual,
here's how to start.
Be very sure the roses haven't been
sprayed with insecticide or dusted with sulfur. This is very important. You
want clean, untainted rose hips for your jelly.
Watch the hips form and when they are the
right color (or you are sure they are ripe), pick them off. Most rose hip
recipes require a good amount of rose hips.
Have sterilized jelly jars ready.
Wash the hips and chop them (nowadays, I
use a food processor). Since this is going to be a jelly (which will be
strained any way) you don't need to remove the skin or pick out the seeds. Just
don't puree the stuff until the seeds break up -- if broken, they add
bitterness to the jelly.
(Some recipes call for apple pieces to
provide extra juiciness, which reduces the quantity of hips needed but not the
particular taste and aroma of the hips.)
"NO
PECTIN" ROSE HIP JAM
Boil 2
lbs of chopped rose hips in 2 pints of water until good and tender. Rub the
pulp through a fine sieve to remove the seeds and basically make a puree.
Peel,
quarter and remove seeds from 4 to 5 green apples and boil in water until soft.
Rub them through the sieve also.
Combine
the apple and rose hip puree with 2 1/2 to 3 cups of sugar and 1/3 of a cup of
lemon juice. The solution should be cloudy with minutes bits of the rose and
apple pulp.
Bring
to a boil and continue boiling for another 15 minutes.
When it
has reached the desired consistency, pour into sterilized jars and seal.
SUMMER ROSE HIP JELLY
Place 1
quart of last winter's dried apple slices into a deep cooking pot, cover with
warm water and let stand overnight (or at least 8 hours). The next day add 1
quart of fresh rose hips to the pot and cover with warm water.
Bring
the pot to a boil and cook until very soft. Drain off the liquid through a
jelly bag into a new pot.
Add 2
cups of sugar for each pint of juice and boil for another 20 minutes or until
mixture jells into a thick mass when dropped from a spoon into cold water.
Pour
into sterilized jars and seal.
ROSE HIP MARMALADE
Soak
one pound of washed rose hips in water for a couple of hours to soften the
skins. After soaking, bring to a boil in the same water and cook for 15
minutes.
Strain
the liquid into a smaller pot and for each cup of juice, add one cup of
granulated sugar. Stir well.
Boil the sweetened juice until it reaches a thick syrup consistency.
Add the
boiled rose hips (you can chop them into chunks if you desire). Boil syrup
mixture until the hips are very tender.
Pour
into sterilized jars and seal.
From the American Rose Society web
site: www.ars.org.
Propagating Roses from Cuttings
By Consulting Rosarian Contact: Marily A. Young
Most of us who grow roses have one or more varieties that
we think of as favorites and of which we would like to have additional plants.
Many times, these favorites are older varieties which are no longer
commercially available. However, propagating roses by rooting softwood cuttings
is a reasonably simple way of obtaining more of your favorite non-patented
roses. Many Old Garden Roses, shrub roses and miniature roses will grow quite
vigorously on their own roots. Modern hybrid teas and floribundas are less
predictable, but certainly worth trying.
There are many techniques and approaches to rooting
cuttings, but all of them meet certain important requirements. First of all,
the cuttings must have a moist medium in which to begin developing a root
system. Secondly, the cuttings must have a moist atmosphere in order to reduce
water lose through their leaves. There are two common methods used by rose
hobbyists which meet these needs: the "pop bottle" method, and the
"baggie" method. What both of the methods have in common, however, is
the selection and preparation of the cutting itself.
Selecting the Cutting
The Timing: The best stems for taking softwood
cuttings are those which have recently bloomed, but which have not yet started
active growth at the new bud eyes along the stem. The bud eyes should, however,
be visible and just beginning to swell. When in doubt, it is better to take
those with smaller bud eyes, rather than larger. Also, it is best to take the
cutting after the bush has been well-watered.
The Stem: Be sure to choose a healthy, disease-free stem. Any
remaining bloom parts should be removed from the stem by pruning back to the
first 5-leaflet leafset (or 7-leaflet set on those varieties which tend to
produce them). Next, count 4 or 5 leafsets down the stem and make the bottom
cut on an angle, 1/4" below that leafset. The lower 2 or 3 leafsets should
then be stripped from the stem, taking care not to tear the outer layer of the
stem. Depending on the size of the remaining foliage, the ending leaflets on
the leafsets may also be removed to insure that the foliage is not crowded in
the baggie or bottle. The bottom of the stem may then be dipped in rooting
hormone (powder or liquid) and planted using one of the following methods.
The "Pop-Bottle" Method
The key to this approach is the construction of
"greenhouses" for the cuttings, using empty 2-liter soft-drink
bottles and individual pots. The bottom of the bottle should be cut off with a
sharp utility knife, right where the solid-colored section is joined to the
clear section. Discard the bottom, but keep the bottle cap. The pots should be
inexpensive plastic pots, slightly larger than 4" in diameter (some
suppliers call them CL100's). Using this size pot, the top of the soda bottle
should just fit snugly inside the pot rim.
Fill the pots firmly with a sterile potting mix which is
moist, but not soggy. Do not use a soil-less mix, or one that has a high
percentage of vermiculite. The soil-less mixes generally do not have enough
nutrient content to sustain growth. Those with a high vermiculite content tend
to compact and provide insufficient drainage and aeration for the root systems.
Use a pencil, or other similarly-shaped implement, to poke a hole in the soil.
(If you are short of pots, 2, or even 3, cuttings can be planted in the same
pot.) Make sure the hole is deep enough so that at least the bottom 2 bud eyes
on the cutting will be below surface level. Place the cutting in the hole and
firm the soil very tightly around it.
Place the top from the soda bottle over the cutting and
press it gently into the soil. Make sure that there are no gaps through which
evaporation could occur. Put the cap on the bottle, but do not tighten. After
approximately 2 hours, check the bottles to make sure there is some moisture
condensed on the inside of each. If not, your soil may not have been moist
enough and a small amount of additional water should be added. Place the pots
in a bright location, but NOT in direct sunlight. I have had success locating
them on a north-facing windowsill, outdoors under the shade of a dense tree, or
under florescent lights.
After 1 week, remove the caps from the bottles to begin
letting air circulate around the plant. After 3 to 4 weeks, you should start to
see new growth beginning from the bud eyes. At this point, roots have probably
begun to form. However, I have had the most success when the bottles have been
left over the pots for as long as possible (sometimes until the new growth
actually pushes the bottle off). When the new growth becomes fairly large,
begin acclimating the plant to lower humidity by gradually removing the bottle
top for longer periods each day. Start with 5 minutes and keep a spray bottle
of water handy in case a plant wilts quickly.
Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they
should be allowed to grow in their pots until they are just beginning to become
rootbound. Watch for the first signs of small, white roots protruding from the
bottoms of the pots. When plants become slightly potbound, they may then be
planted out in the garden, weather and seasons permitting. Otherwise, they may
be grown on, in larger pots, indoors under high-intensity lights.
The "Baggie" Method
In this method, large, resealable, zipper-lock plastic food
storage bags are used to create the "greenhouse" atmosphere required
for rooting the cuttings. To begin, fold the top of the bag down several inches
in order to keep the "zipper" clean while filling the bag. Place 4 or
5 handfuls of moistened potting soil into the bag; firm both soil and bag into
a ball shape with a flattened bottom. Use a pencil or similarly-shaped object
to poke a 2" deep hole in the soil. Insert the cutting and firm the soil
tightly around it. Unfold the top of the bag and close most of the zipper,
leaving the last 1" open. Breathe into the bag to inflate it, then quickly
close the remaining length. Finally, place the bag in indirect light (as
described in the "pop-bottle" method).
The acclimation of the newly-rooted plants should be done
gradually, just as in the previous method. Again, it is best to delay opening
the bags until new top growth can no longer be accommodated within the bag.
Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they can be place in regular
pots to continue their growth.
From the American Rose Society web
site: www.ars.org.
Rosey Events
September 20, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Canceled due to the hurricane.
October 18, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: Barbara Hardison. This will be a hands-on seminar on propagating roses. Supplies needed will be announced at a later
date.
November 15, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: TBA
December 13, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: TBA
Meet
Your Officers
At the first meeting of the
WCFRS, the following officers were elected:
President:
Patti Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.1871
email: NCRoseLady@aol.com
1st VP Program Chair: Bill Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.1871
email: NCRoseLady@aol.com
2nd VP Membership Chair: Jack Hudson
1610 Cottswald Court
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.793.0114
email: jmtal@ec.rr.com
Secretary:
Jennifer Arcuri
109 Cale Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 686.1432
Email: jlmjlm@bellsouth.net
Treasurer:
Kim Landis
108 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.3025
Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com
Historian:
Cindy Black
102 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC
28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.0545
Email: Cacob0545@aol.com
Newsletter Editor: Amy Padgett
622 Baldwin Elkins Road
Clarkton, NC 28433
Phone: 910.645.6417
Email: amy@amypadgett.com
Gardening web site: www.amypadgett.com
Co-editor:
Annie Brittin
1735 Fairway Drive
Wilmington, NC 28403
Phone:910.815.2941
Email: Brittin@dellepro.com
Hospitality Chair: Bob & Pat Moore
4114 Kittiwake Court
Southport, NC 28461
Phone: 910.253.7519
Email: bobrtm@earthlink.net
Parlamentarian:
Tom Landis
108 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.3025
Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com
Email Chair:
Jack Hudson
1610 Cottswald Court
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.793.0114
Email: jmta1@ec.rr.com
Publicity Chair:
Marla Trobaugh
209 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.9077
Email: trobaughm@uncw.edu
Photography:
Nell Crosby
6300 Red Cedar Road
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.686.9998
Email: captjoekc@aol.com
Special Thanks
We would like to thank the
following people and businesses for supporting the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society in a variety of ways.
Catlin
220 Old Dairy Road
Wilmington, NC 28405
Contact: Thomas W. Landis
Hobby Greenhouse Club for
their generous $25.00 donation.
Thanks to
Our Members
Thanks to all the members of WCFRS
who have made this society so successful.
If we have missed any family members or any corrections are needed,
please contact Jack Hudson, 910.793.0114 or email jmta1@ec.rr.com.
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society Members:
Jennifer Arcuri
David & Cindy Black
Ted & Annie Brittin
Kevin & Teresa Butler
Emile & Nancy Carrier
Janice & Joe Clifford
Joe & Nell Crosby
Alex & Maria Cummings
Ed & Lenna Easter
Lori Efird
Linda Farmer
George & Bunny Froehlich
Ms. Lori Hardee
Ms. Barbara Hardison
Barbara, Jim, Caroline, Eric
& Sutton Hardy
Bill & Patti Hartzell
Faye B. Haywood
Patricia Holt
Russel Holt
Tom Huckelberry
Jack & Marilyn Hudson
Annette Johnson
Tom & Kim Landis
Edward & Diane Larson
Joe Latham
Denise Lee
Anthony & Ann Lees
Bob & Traci Leroy
Molly Ley
Carol Mathewson
Nancy Millard
Bob & Pat Moore
Carlos & Arlene
"Rose" Nazario
Derek & Mercades D.
Noakes
Alvin & Roberta Northern
Amy Globel Padgett
Neal & Ginny Patrick
James & Bonita Phelps
Linda White & George
Phillips
Richard Pipkin
Frank & Connie Piscetelli
Terry & Marge Preiss
Louise Ramsdale
Paul & Carol Rodriguez
Nicole Rollins
Jim & Ozella Stanley
Gary & Patty Stephens
Howie Strauss
Saundra Swain
Scott & Judy Szabo
John & Melissa Tally
Ernest & Kay Templeton
Joseph & Marla Trobaugh
Margaret Whitesell
Disclaimer: While the
information and recommendations in this newsletter are believed to be correct,
neither the authors, editors, nor the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS)
can accept responsibility for errors or omissions that may be made. The WCFRS makes no warranty, expressed or
implied, with respect to the material contained herein.