Vol 1/Issue 6, October 2003
To Contact: WCFRS
C/O Patti Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
E-mail: WCFRSNC@aol.com
Welcome! to the
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) newsletter, The Costal Rose with articles about growing and enjoying roses in
the coastal North Carolina area.
Suggestion and questions are
welcomed. We encourage you to submit
them to us using the e-mail or postal address listed above.
Check out our web page at: http://carolinadistrict.org/WCFRS/index.htm
President’s Message
Hi there Rose Buds!
I missed seeing you at the October meeting but a family reunion took me
to South Carolina on the same day. I
heard you all had a wonderful time!
We have had great speakers this year at the Rose Society meetings. I want to thank each and every one of you
for talking time to attend these meetings.
Some of the speakers have come from as far as the Charlotte area to
share their knowledge with you. I have
had some great feedback about the speakers, and I know you will love the agenda
for next year! Make sure you mark your
calendars for the dates and times of the 2004 meetings, found in this
newsletter. Please feel free to give us
any suggestions of speakers that you would like to hear from in the future. Contact Bill Hartzell with any suggestions
at 686.1871.
November 15th 10:00 – 12:00, WCFRS meeting will have some
wonderful art on display, available for purchase. This sought after art is by a well-known local artist, Bob Leroy,
who frequently paints familiar local settings in Wilmington, North Carolina
including the rose gardens in our own arboretum. Bob is generously donating 20% of the sales to our own Wilmington
Cape Fear Rose Society. Not only will
you have the opportunity to purchase this art on site, orders may also be
placed at the meeting. This would make
a wonderful Christmas gift.
Fall is here and we all are winding down with the gardens. Bill Hartzell will be speaking on November
15th 10:00 – 12:00 on how to prepare your rose gardens for the
winter and what to do and not to do. He
will be anxious to answer any questions you have pertaining to your rose
gardens, so bring that burning question you have wanted to ask all year!
Our December “Pot Luck Christmas Brunch” meeting will be held on
Saturday, December 13th, from 10:00 –12:00. This is going to be fun! We will be having a brunch meeting with
drawings and a gift exchange. If you
would like to participate, please bring a $10.00 wrapped gift that is appropriate
for male or female. Be creative! Brunch will consist of your favorite dish
that you will also be bringing! Bring
something yummy and appropriate for brunch to share! Beverages will be provided!
Have you seen our Rose Gardens at the Arboretum lately? Make sure you take a look before or after
the meetings. You will notice a
significant change and much of it is because of our Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society volunteers that have been meeting there once a week or so to prune and
weed. If you haven’t yet, volunteer to
help in the rose garden. Not only can
you take home any cuttings that are pruned off but also you can experiment with
the propagation method that you learned at the last meeting with Barbara
Hardison. I want to thank everyone that
has volunteered! You have made a
wonderful difference!
We need people to join in and help with publicity. Letting the public know about our meetings
is important. This will include getting
fliers out to local sites for the public to see as well as sending information
by mail, faxes and email to local TV, radio and newspapers. You won’t need to do it all, just pitch in
and help! See me if you can help with
this important job.
With Christmas coming up, this is the perfect time to purchase a
Wilmington Cape Fear Society Membership for your rose buddy’s and family as a
Christmas gift. These can be purchased
through Jack Hudson at the next meeting.
Family Membership for the year 2004 is $15.00. Dues will be due the first of the year. See Jack with your membership dues also.
Last but not least…would you like some starts of perennials? Bill and I are overcrowded with these and
would love to share what we have with you and your friends. If you would like to add to your gardens,
please see or call Bill. Just bring
your empty trunk, a shovel and something to put them in (plastic bags
work). Please call before you come
because we need to be there to let you know what is available.
We want to make this a great Rose Society here in Wilmington so please
feel free to contact me at 686.1871, with any suggestions that you might
have. I am open to try any ideas that
will make this an awesome society.
See you all in November!
Patti
PS: Rose bushes are the ultimate gift for anniversaries, “Get
Well” and birthdays or a simple "I Love You". We are now offering annual WCFRS membership
gift certificates for purchase. Combine
this with a rose bush for that special rose lover in your life. Contact me if you are interested in
purchasing a gift certificate.
We now have an official checking account, so all checks from this point
forward should be made out to the “Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society”.
American
Rose Magazine
Anyone
interested in joining the American Rose Society (includes the American Rose magazine subscription)
should mail or hand our treasurer, Kim Landis, their subscription request along
with a check made out to "Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society" so that
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose society will receive $5.00. If the subscription is sent directly to ARS, we will not receive
the donation from American Rose Society.
Mail to:
Treasurer: Kim Landis
108
Stonehead Court
Wilmington,
NC 28411-7855
Phone:
910.686.3025
"Urgent SOS"
Our Rose Garden at the arboretum is in need of volunteers. This will involve pruning, weeding and
gentle rose love & care twice a month.
I am requesting that at least 4 couples or 8 or more people volunteer to
commit themselves to help take care of the gardens from this point on because
their curator and our valued society member, Barbara Hardison, is moving out of
the Wilmington area. Please notify me
as soon as possible so that our rose gardens at the arboretum will not be
neglected. You will be requested to
help in the rose garden twice a month.
This will be a great way to learn about roses and have hands on
experience! Please consider this
because this is a very urgent need.
Contact me as soon as possible at 910.686.1871.
--Patti
Note from the Editor -
After the
wonderful rose arranging session last month, it seemed appropriate to include
some articles on conditioning and preserving roses. Here are some from the American Rose Society (ARS).
The Rose Family
Consulting Rosarian Contact:Malcolm M.
Manners
The rose is a rose,
And was always a rose.
But the theory now goes
That the apple's a rose,
And the pear is, and so's
The plum, I suppose.
The dear only knows
What will next prove a rose.
You, of course, are a rose-
But were always a rose.
by Robert Frost
I read this poem recently in Carol
Hendrick's newsletter, from the Antique Rose Emporium. Frost must have been
studying rose taxonomy. That gave me an idea for an article, explaining the
concept of the rose family. Plant families are groups of plants which are more
closely related to each other than they are to members of other families.
Roses belong to the family Rosaceae
(rose-AH-see-ee), a rather large family (meaning that it contains many
species), including quite a few food and ornamental crops. Members of the
family usually have stipules (the pair of green flaps at the base of the leaf),
often have thorns or prickles, and their flowers tend to have their parts in
multiples of 5, with large numbers (more than 12) of stamens. Flowers of most
members of the family have a hypanthium, which is a bowl- or cup-shaped structure,
made up of the bases of the sepals, petals, stamens, and part of the receptacle
(the end of the stem to which the flower is attached), all fused together. The
sepals, petals, and stamens appear to grow out of the edge of the hypanthium.
The family Rosaceae is divided into six
subfamilies, based on flower and/or fruit structure. Species within a subfamily
are more closely related to each other than they are to members of any other
subfamily. Think of it as a filing system, where the family might be the filing
cabinet, each drawer a subfamily, each genus a file folder, and each species an
individual document within the folder. The closer two items are to being alike,
the more likely they are to be "filed" close to each other.
Family names end with the letters
"aceae," and subfamilies end in "oideae." Here are the six
subfamilies of Rosaceae:
· Spiraeoideae*
- includes bridal wreath (Spiraea), an ornnamental shrub. In this group, the
fruit is a dry, papery capsule or follicle.
· Pomoideae
(pom-oy-dee-ee) - includes several important fruits. All of this subfamily make
a "pome" as their fruit type. A pome has a core made up of the true
fruit (ovary), surrounded by a much-enlarged hypanthium. Apples, pears, and
loquats are in this group. Most of what you eat is actually swollen hypanthium,
and the core that gets thrown away is the true fruit (derived from the ovary of
the flower).
· Prunoideae
(prune-oy-dee-ee) - In this subfamily, the fruit is a "drupe,"
entirely made up of the ovary of a flower. The hypanthium falls off with the
petals, while the fruit is still tiny. A drupe has a thin outer skin, a soft,
juicy pulp, and a hard, stony "pit," surrounding 1 or 2 seeds. This
group includes peach, nectarine, plum, cherry, apricot, and almond. In the case
of almonds, we throw away the fruit and keep the pit.
· Chrysobalanoideae
(kriss-oh-bal-an-oy-dee-ee!)* - Some taxonomists believe this subfamily is so
different from the other subfamilies that it should be given full family
status, in which case it would be the Chrysobalanaceae. It includes the gopher
apple (Licania), a common ground-covering subshrub throughout Florida, and
cocoplum (Chrysobalanus), a popular native shrub for use in clipped hedges in
South Florida.
· Neuradoideae
- (new-rad-oy-dee-ee) - This subfamily appparently doesn't occur in Florida,
either cultivated or native, and I know nothing about it. Sorry.
· Rosoideae
- (rose-OY-dee-ee) - This is the subfamilyy to which roses belong. Flowers in
this group usually have at least 10 ovaries, often many more. In addition to
roses, the group includes raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries.
With one exception, the plants we call
"roses" all belong to a single genus within the Rosoideae. The genus
name is Rosa, which should always be written in italics or, if your typewriter
or word processor can't do that, it may be underlined Rosa. The exception is
Hulthemia persica, which has been separated from the true roses because of its
simple leaves (only one leaflet), its complete lack of stipules, and perhaps
some other reasons. We don't often see it in this country, but I saw some nice
specimens at the R. Harkness & Co. nursery in England, last summer.
The true roses (genus Rosa) have stipules
(usually attached to the base of the leaf), compound leaves, usually with an
odd number of leaflets, often produce prickles (outgrowths of the epidermis at
any point along the stem) but never true thorns (modified stems, specifically
from the buds just above the leaves). They have 5-petal flowers (R. omiensis is
an exception with only 4, and cultivated "double" roses have been
selected by horticulturists, as desirable "freaks.") And, unique to
the roses, they produce "hips" as their fruit type - a sort of
inside-out strawberry, which is a deep, bowl- or snifter-shaped structure
formed from the hypanthium. Inside are the hard, angular objects that most of
us refer to as "seeds," but which are actually small fruits
(achenes), each of which contains a single seed. Other examples of achenes are
the so-called "seeds" of a strawberry or a sunflower. In each case,
the shell is structurally a fruit, with a single true seed inside, attached to
the achene at one end.
The Latin name (scientific name or
botanical name) of a rose consists of the genus name, Rosa, followed by the
species name. Both words should be
either underlined or italicized. Here
are some examples:
· Rosa canina
(the dog rose)
· Rosa palustris
(the swamp rose)
· R. multiflora
(a rootstock variety)
· R. rugosa
Note that after you've listed the genus once, it becomes
acceptable to abbreviate it with just the first letter and a period. To be entirely correct, one 
should
also include the name of its "author," the person who described and
named the species, or an abbreviation of that name, after the species name
(e.g., R. gallica L., which indicates that Linneaus is the author of the
species); however, unless you're being quite picky, it is usual to drop the
author's name.
Most of the roses we grow in our gardens are not species;
rather, they are complex hybrids with several species in their backgrounds.
Even many of our oldest heritage varieties are hybrids which occurred
naturally, when two species were grown near each other so that
cross-pollination occurred, and then new plants were grown from the resulting
seeds. In the case of hybrids, we no longer try to list the species in their
ancestry. Instead, they are given cultivar (="variety") names, which
are not in Latin and which are always capitalized and surrounded by single
quotes. Examples are 'Duchesse de Brabant', 'Prosperity', 'Marechal
Niel', etc. It is also possible to
have named cultivars of a species rose, e.g., R. filipes Kiftsgate,
which indicates that the variety 'Kiftsgate' is a selection of a particular
form of the species.
That's probably enough taxonomy for one article, so I'll
stop now. Perhaps we'll have more,
later.
*spiraeoideae - a marvelous word to use at boring
dinner parties, to liven up the conversation. It's pronounced spy-ree-oy-dee-ee,
with the "oy" accented. Just
say something like, "I believe some flowers from a shrub in the
Spiraeoideae have fallen into the mashed potatoes, from the centerpiece
bouquet!" You will immediately have the whole crowd's attention.
*kriss-oh-bal-an-oy-dee-ee! - This would be a great name for a cat,
assuming that you don't much like cats! Poetical, huh? If it just had one more syllable, it could
be a line out of "Song of Hiawatha."
Don't even try this one at a dinner party; you'll be escorted out,
quickly.
(Reprinted from the November, 1994 issue
of The Cherokee Rose)
Growing Roses From Seeds
By Pamela A. Puyear
This spring the bees must have been busy,
for I discovered that two of my old roses were pregnant! These were Tom Adam's "Blackjack
Bramble" (probably 'Tuscan Superb') and 'Mme. Isaac Pereire' and they had
hips!
A rose hep (also "hip") looks
like this illustration. If the seeds
are ripened by a complicated process to overcome their natural double dormancy,
and are planted, the li'l Dickenses will grow up to be a real rose bush!
First of all, make sure you have a
desirable cross. The best way, of
course, is not to leave it to the bees, but do it yourself by putting the
pollen of one rose on the center of another bloom, and covering it up with the
toe cut out of some old ruined panty hose. This will keep bees and bugs out and
insure the cross you made is the only one made.
Two everbloomers will have everblooming
babies, but a spring bloomer (once-bloomer) and an everbloomer will not, in the
first generation. About 15%, with a nod to Mendel, will be everbloomers in the
second generation. This is why China Hybrids are only spring bloomers unless
crossed again. With this in mind, I will forego raising Tuscany's children,
even though "Maggie" was probably the pollen parent. I will plant Mme. Isaac's seeds because
Cramoisie was probably the pollen parent there, so chances are I'll get mostly
everblooming seedlings.
Some roses make better seed parents than
others. It seems to me that Hybrid Perpetuals and Bourbons are good potential
seed bearers.
To ripen your heps once they have formed and turned color,
store them in the pod for about 3 months in the vegetable crisper in a ziplock
bag, with damp (but not wet) peat or spaghnum moss. Then remove to 70 degree
temperature for 6 weeks, and then put them back into the crisper at 40 degrees
to 42 degrees. In late February - if you can wait that long - remove the seeds
from the pods. They will vary in size, but the test is to put them in water;
those that float are sterile.
Sow the ones that sank about 1 inch apart in a seed box or in
the garden and cover with 1/2 inch of sterile soil. Our very early spring
temperatures should be about right for them. Few will germinate and those will
be very erratic about it. But what a thrill to see true rose leaves on tiny
seedlings!
(Reprinted from the American Rose Society.)
Here is an article for all of you who are thinking of
trying your hand at breeding your own roses.
Trying to hybridize roses may be frustrating at first, so it pays to
know which roses have the “best” pollen or pods. The following list is meant to help you select some roses as a
“starters”.
It may prove to be fun, and
you may even come up with your very own rose!
Suggested Pod and Pollen Parents
for Beginning Hybridizers
(with thanks to correspondents who
commented on the list and special thanks to James A. Sproul of Roses By Design [rosesbydesign@earthlink.net]
for help with the list of minis)
Note: This list includes mainly hybrid teas and floribundas
(in Part I) and minis (in Part II). It does not include species, old garden
roses, or large shrub roses (with the exception of a few large-flowered
climbers). Rugosa roses are
traditionally the easiest species and species hybrids for the beginner, as they
receive pollen of most roses readily and produce large numbers of seeds that
germinate easily. Recent rugosa
varieties that set hips easily include
Charles Albanel
Dart's Dash
Henry Hudson
Mont Blanc
Monte Cassino
Pierette Pavement
Purple Pavement (Rotes Meer)
Snow Pavement
Part I: Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and
Large-Flowered Climbers
Note: The annotation ( - ) means that I received at least
one negative comment from correspondents about this rose as a pod parent. Also, although there are differences of
opinion about this point, some breeders say that hybrid teas and floribundas
will form hips better when on their own roots, not bud-grafted.
Pod parents:
Armada
Bonica
Brandy
Carefree Beauty
Charlotte Armstrong
Chaucer
Colour Wonder
Crystalline
Dornroschen
First Prize ( - )
Fragrant Cloud ( - )
Honor
Impatient
Lilian Austin
Little Darling
Liverpool Echo
Livin' Easy
Lynn Anderson
New Dawn
New Year
Paradise
Pink Parfait
Prairie Princess
Pristine ( - )
Prominent
Queen Elizabeth
Secret Love
Sexy Rexy
Sheer Bliss
Sheer Elegance ( - )
Silver Jubilee
Stainless Steel
Sunflare
Sunsprite ( - )
Tournament of Roses
Tropicana
Vera Dalton
Westerland
White Cockade
White Dawn
White Masterpiece
Yesterday
Zorina
Pollen parents:
Amber Queen
Arthur Bell
Carefree Beauty
Chaucer
Circus
First Prize
Fragrant Cloud
Karl Herbst
Livin'
Easy
Marina
New Year
Paradise
Pascali
Peace
Prairie Princess
Prima Ballerina
Prominent
Queen Elizabeth
Redgold
Sheer Elegance
Sunflare
Touch of Class
Yesterday
Zorina
Part II: Minis
Note: A traditional method of breeding minis has been to
use a mini as pollen parent on larger roses (usually hybrid teas and
floribundas.)
Pod parents:
Anytime
Avandel
Chipmunk
Fairhope
Jean Kenneally
June Laver
Little Darling
Loving Touch
Party Girl
Pink Petticoat
Rise 'n' Shine
Sequoia Gold
Sheri Anne
Sunny Dew
Pollen parents:
Anytime
Jean Kenneally
Magic Carrousel
Over the Rainbow
Party Girl
Rainbow's End
Rise 'n' Shine
Sheri Anne
A Short Discussion of Flower Structure
Consulting Rosarian: Malcolm M. Manners
An understanding of the anatomy of a rose flower as well as
the terminology used to describe that anatomy, are particularly useful in rose
identification. Rose flowers are, with a few idiosyncrasies, rather typical of
most flowers. The stem which connects
the flower to the rest of the plant is the pedicel (ped-i-sell). It is also
referred to as a peduncle, (pee-dunkl or pay-dunkl) and the two words are
interchangeable IF there is only one flower on the stem. If there is a cluster
of flowers, the entire cluster is supported by a peduncle, while each flower of
the cluster has its own pedicel. Pedicels always subtend individual flowers;
peduncles subtend entire inflorescences 
(which
in roses may be clusters or just an individual flower). The end of the pedicel,
where the stem stops and the flower begins, is the receptacle. In most non-rose
flowers, the other parts of the flower are attached directly to the receptacle.
However, in roses, there is a bowl-shaped hypanthium (hi-panth-ee-um), which is
a combination of the receptacle and the bases of the sepals, petals, and
stamens, all fused together into a single unit. The hypanthium ultimately grows
to become a rose hip.
Attached to the hypanthium are four groups (whorls) of
parts. The outer two are non-reproductive; the inner two are reproductive. The
outermost whorl is the calyx (kay-lix). It is made up of five green, leaf-like
flaps, each of which is a sepal (see-pull). The sepals cover the flower bud
until shortly before it opens.
The second whorl is the corolla (kor-ol-la). Don't say it
kor-rhol-la, unless you're referring to a model of Toyota. The corolla is made
up of five large, colorful flaps, the petals. These, of course, are the most
showy portion of the flower. (Double flowers, i.e., those with more than 5
petals, will be explained later.)
The calyx and corolla are the nonreproductive whorls; the
two of them together are referred to as the perianth. Inside the perianth is
the third whorl, the androecium (an-dro-e-see-um), made up of many stamens
(stay-menz). This is the male portion of the flower. Each stamen consists of a
long, thin stalk - the filament, and a larger, usually yellow top portion - the
anther. Pollen is produced inside the
anther, which cracks open to release the pollen when the flower is fully open.
You may notice that botanical descriptions often state that a rose has an
"infinite" number of stamens. Obviously, botanists must not be
mathematicians! In botanists' jargon, the word "infinite" means
"more than 12." In the case of a rose flower, it is usually
substantially more than 12.
At
the center of the flower is the gynoecium (jie-no-e-see-um), the female portion
of the flower, consisting of many pistils. Each pistil has three parts - a
knob-like stigma, onto which pollen is placed during pollination, a long, thin
stalk called the style, and a large, bulbous ovary at the base, which contains
a single ovule. After pollination and fertilization, the ovule grows to become
a seed. The illustration at the beginning of this page shows only two pistils;
a rose would normally have many (an infinite number!) of pistils. The pistils
are attached inside the hypanthium, to its floor and inner walls.
I promised to discuss "doubling" of flowers. As we
all know, most of the roses we grow have more than five petals. This situation
is known as doubling, and it results when some or all of the stamens become
modified to look like petals. Technically, there are still only five true
petals; the rest are petaloids. Because the petaloids are modified stamens,
extremely double flowers often have few or no functional stamens left, and so
may be male-sterile and worthless as male parents in breeding. They may still
be fertile as female parents.
Since doubling results in at least partial sterility, it is
seldom perpetuated in nature, and we have highly double roses only because
rosarians have discovered such plants and purposely cultivated them.
(Reprinted from
the 12/94 issue of (The Cherokee Rose )
Purchasing Roses
It’s that time of year again
to think about what roses we would like in our gardens. Here are a few rose growers who may be able
to offer you varieties you want but can’t find locally.
US Vendors
Amity Heritage Roses - San Jose,
CA
Antique Rose Emporium - Benham,
TX
Arena Rose Company - Paso Robles, CA
Armstrong Garden Centers - Glendora,
CA
Ashdown Roses - Landrum, SC
Bay
Laurel Nursery - Atascadero, CA
Bracken Garden Center - Redding, CA
Bridges Roses - Lawndale, NC
The
Cabbage Rose - Clermont, FL
Carlton Roses - Carlton, OR
Chamblee Roses - Tyler, TX
Countryside
Roses - Hattiesburg, MS
Edmunds Roses - Wilsonville, OR
Garden Valley Roses - Petaluma, CA
Fork and Spade - formerly Grow
Spot .com- Modesto. Ca
Heirloom Roses - St. Paul, OR
High Country Roses - Jensen, UT
Johnny
Becnel -
K&M Nursery - Buckatunna, Ms.39322
Ph - 601-648-2908
FAX - 601-648-2151
Landscape USA - Salem, OR
Liggett's Rose Nursery - San
Jose, CA
Limberlost Nursery - Van
Nuys, CA
Linda's
Antique Roses - San Marcos, TX
Mary's Plant Farm - Hamilton, OH
Melrose Plantation - Lancaster, VA
Michael's Premier Roses - Sacramento,
CA
The Mini Rose Garden - Cross Hill, SC
Mission Hills Nursery - San
Diego, CA
Montgomery Rose Company - Hadley, MA
Muncy's Florida Rose Emporium - Sarasota,
FL
Nelson's Florida Roses
- Apopka, FL
Nor'East Miniature Roses - Rowley,
MA
Northland Rosarium - Spokane, WA
Old Sheep Meadows Nursery
- Alfred, ME
Orion Farm - Waverly, MN
Otto & Sons Nursery -
Fillmore, CA
Peaceful Habitations Rose Gardens -
Boerne, TX
Petaluma Rose Company - Petaluma, CA
Ralph Moore's Sequoia Nursery
- Visalia, CA
Regan Nursery - Fremont, CA
Rose Fire, Ltd. - Edon, OH
Rose Hill Garden - Ethel, LA
Rose King Gardens - Loxahatchee/West
Palm Beach, Fl NEW
Rosemania - Nashville, TN
Roseraie at Bayfields - Waldoboro, ME
Roses
Unlimited - Laurens, SC
Roses of Yesterday and Today -
Watsonville, CA
S&W Greenhouse - White House, TN
Sam Kedem Roses - Hastings, MN
Spring Valley Roses - Spring
Valley, WI
Teas Nursery - Houston, TX
Tiny Petals Nursery - Chula
Vista, CA
The Uncommon Rose - Corvallis, OR
Vintage Gardens - Sebastopol, CA
Wayside Gardens - Hodges, SC
Weeks Roses - Upland, CA
White Rabbit Roses - Elk, CA
Windswept Gardens - Bangor, ME
Wisconsin Roses - Kenosha, WI
Witherspoon Rose Culture - Durham, NC
Canadian Vendors
Aldershot Greenhouses
- Burlington, ONT
Anglegrove Tree Seed Company -
Harbour Grace, NEWF
Enderlein Nurseries - No.
Ontario, ONT
Hortico Nurseries - Waterdown, ONT
Martin & Kraus - Carlisle, ONT
Old Heirloom Roses - Halifax, NS
Old Rose Nursery - Hornby
Island, BC
Pickering Nurseries - Pickering,
ONT
Russian Roses For The North -
Grand Forks, BC
Sylvan Roses - Kelowna, BC
Valderose Gardens - Chatham, ONT
European Vendors
Apuldram Roses - West Sussex, ENG
Belle Epoque Rose Nurseries - Aalsmeer,
Netherlands
C&K Jones Internet Rose Catalog
- Cheshire, ENG
David Austin Roses -
Wolverhampton, ENG
De Ruiter's International -
Netherlands
Fryer's Roses - Cheshire, ENG
Harkness Roses - Hertfordshire, ENG
Jan Spek Roses BV - Holland
W. Kordes' Sohne - GER
Mattocks Roses -
Oxford, ENG
Meilland Roses - France
Notcutts Nurseries and Garden Centers -
Suffolk & Surrey, ENG
OmniFlora - Frankfurt, GER
Peter Beales' Roses - Norfolk, ENG
Roses Guillot - Chamagnieu, FR
Tantau's Roses (Rosen Tantau) -
Uetersen, GER
Walter Bartoli Roses - Orvieto, Italy
Vendors from "Down
Under"
Finegand Nursery -
Balclutha, NZ
Ross Roses - Willunga, AUS
Tasman Bay Roses - South Island, NZ
Treloar Roses of Australia -
Portland, Vict., AUS
Rosey Events
October 18, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: Barbara Hardison. This will be a hands-on seminar on propagating roses. Supplies needed will be announced at a later
date.
November 15, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: TBA
December 13, 2003
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society
Meeting at the Arboretum
auditorium, 10:00am – noon.
Speaker: TBA
2004 Projected Schedule
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society
Meeting Schedule
January 31st 10-12
(noon)
February 28th 10-12
(noon)
March 20th 10-12 (noon)
April 24th 9-11
AM
May 22nd 10-12
(noon)
June 26th 10-12(noon)
July 31st 10-12
(noon)
August 28th 10-12
(noon)
September 25th 10-12
(noon)
October 30th 10-12
(noon)
November 20th 10-12
(noon)
December 18th 10-12
(noon)
Dates are subject to change due to events such as Rose Garden
tours. All meetings will be in the
auditorium at the Arboretum unless specified.
Meet
Your Officers
At the first meeting of the
WCFRS, the following officers were elected:
President:
Patti Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.1871
email: NCRoseLady@aol.com
1st VP Program Chair: Bill Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.1871
email: NCRoseLady@aol.com
2nd VP Membership Chair: Jack Hudson
1610 Cottswald Court
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.793.0114
email: jmtal@ec.rr.com
Secretary:
Jennifer Arcuri
109 Cale Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 686.1432
Email: jlmjlm@bellsouth.net
Treasurer:
Kim Landis
108 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.3025
Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com
Historian:
Cindy Black
102 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC
28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.0545
Email: Cacob0545@aol.com
Newsletter Editor: Amy Padgett
622 Baldwin Elkins Road
Clarkton, NC 28433
Phone: 910.645.6417
Email: amy@amypadgett.com
Gardening web site: www.amypadgett.com
Co-editor:
Annie Brittin
1735 Fairway Drive
Wilmington, NC 28403
Phone:910.815.2941
Email: Brittin@dellepro.com
Hospitality Chair: Bob & Pat Moore
4114 Kittiwake Court
Southport, NC 28461
Phone: 910.253.7519
Email: bobrtm@earthlink.net
Parlamentarian:
Tom Landis
108 Stonehead Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.3025
Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com
Email Chair:
Jack Hudson
1610 Cottswald Court
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.793.0114
Email: jmta1@ec.rr.com
Publicity Chair:
Marla Trobaugh
209 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
Phone: 910.686.9077
Email: trobaughm@uncw.edu
Photography:
Nell Crosby
6300 Red Cedar Road
Wilmington, NC 28411
Phone: 910.686.9998
Email: captjoekc@aol.com
Special Thanks
We would like to thank the
following people and businesses for supporting the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society in a variety of ways.
Catlin
220 Old Dairy Road
Wilmington, NC 28405
Contact: Thomas W. Landis
Hobby Greenhouse Club for
their generous $25.00 donation.
Thanks to
Our Members
Thanks to all the members of
WCFRS who have made this society so successful. If we have missed any family members or any corrections are
needed, please contact Jack Hudson, 910.793.0114 or email jmta1@ec.rr.com.
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society Members:
Jennifer Arcuri
David & Cindy Black
Ted & Annie Brittin
Kevin & Teresa Butler
Emile & Nancy Carrier
Janice & Joe Clifford
Joe & Nell Crosby
Alex & Maria Cummings
Ed & Lenna Easter
Lori Efird
Linda Farmer
George & Bunny Froehlich
Ms. Lori Hardee
Ms. Barbara Hardison
Barbara, Jim, Caroline, Eric
& Sutton Hardy
Bill & Patti Hartzell
Faye B. Haywood
Patricia Holt
Russel Holt
Tom Huckelberry
Jack & Marilyn Hudson
Annette Johnson
Tom & Kim Landis
Edward & Diane Larson
Joe Latham
Denise Lee