January 2004 Newsletter

Vol 2/Issue 1, January 2004

To Contact: WCFRS

C/O Patti Hartzell

217 Salt Brick Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Welcome! to the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) newsletter, The Costal Rose with articles about growing and enjoying roses in the coastal North Carolina area.

Suggestion and questions are welcomed. We encourage you to submit them to us using the e-mail or postal address listed above.

Check out our web page at: http://carolinadistrict.org/WCFRS/index.htm

Note: This will be the last issue for calendar year 2003, so the next issue will be Volume 2, Issue 1, for January, 2004.

President’s Message

Hi there Rose Buds!

Happy 2004!

Our fist meeting of 2004 has been changed to January 24^th. We didn’t want to conflict with the Carolina District meeting on January 31 so thought it best to reschedule in case any of you wanted to attend the Winter Workshop meeting. Please make note of this change on your calendars. Louise Ramsdale has a wonderful presentation on “The History of the Rose”. This is an education you will not want to miss if you are interested in the history and the meaning of our National Flower. She will be available to answer any questions that you may have.

I know you all are getting excited about spring just around the corner, at least in here in Wilmington! We are fortunate enough to have a very short winter here and then before we know it, it’s time to dig out the garden gloves, check out all the equipment and of course if you haven’t yet, get your hands on all the rose catalogues you can and start ordering. I would suggest you do that first because sometimes those great roses you have been waiting to purchase could sell out quickly. When ordering, make sure you let them know that you are in zone 8…believe it or not. This will determine the correct shipping date.

This is a good time to survey your gardens and see what needs to be replaced, moved or just expanded. You can remove any leaves on the bush that just didn’t want to let go of 2003 and on the ground and discard them in the trash. I know it will be hard not to do but do not prune your roses yet. Wait until the forsythia blooms or another good timeline would be Valentines Day to do that.

This is a good time to spray with dormant oil, pesticides and fungicides to kill off any insect eggs present as well prevent diseases.

Send off soil samples if you did not do this in the fall. You can obtain containers from the arboretum and the testing is free for residents of NC…so far. Most states require a fee for this service but we are lucky here in North Carolina.

Roses need watering in the winter also. This will also protect them from the cold weather.

Dues are due now for 2004. Please see Jack to renew your dues. We are hoping to have a Society card for all members this year. I am still checking on that.

The Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society By Laws are available through Email now so if you would like a copy please email me and I will forward a copy to you. They have also been included in this issue of the newsletter.

Please feel free to call me anytime if you need help with anything.

Warm Regards & Happy New Year!

Patti

We have an official checking account, so all checks for membership in the society should be made out to the “Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society”.

American Rose Magazine

Anyone interested in joining the American Rose Society (includes the American Rose magazine subscription) should mail or hand our treasurer, Kim Landis, their subscription request along with a check made out to "Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society" so that Wilmington Cape Fear Rose society will receive $5.00. If the subscription is sent directly to ARS, we will not receive the donation from American Rose Society.

Mail to:

Treasurer: Kim Landis

108 Stonehead Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.3025

Special Notice:

Our president, Patti Hartzell, has been asked to speak at the Carolina District Winter Meeting in Salisbury, NC. This meeting runs from Jan 30 through Feb 1, 2004. Patti will be giving a presentation on Building and Keeping Members.

Additional information: The Rowan Rose Society is hosting the Carolina District Winter Meeting at the Holiday Inn in Salisbury, NC on January 30 and 31 and February 1, 2004. The Program Committee is lining up some interesting classes including: Sandy Lundberg doing a New Rose slide presentation; Sheree Wright on Kicking the HT Habit; Fred Bettin on Companion Plantin; Susan Waites on Arrangements; a Member Garden Slide Presentation; and Howard Jones on growing roses in containers before putting them in the garden.

On Saturday evening, there will be a banquet, entertainment and an auction.

If you are interested in attending, contact Patti for a copy of the registration form.

Arboretum Volunteers Requested

Our Rose Garden at the arboretum is in need of volunteers. This will involve pruning, weeding and gentle rose love & care twice a month. I am requesting that at least 4 couples or 8 or more people volunteer to commit themselves to help take care of the gardens from this point on because their curator and our valued society member, Barbara Hardison, has moved out of the Wilmington area.

Please notify me as soon as possible so that our rose gardens at the arboretum will not be neglected. You will be requested to help in the rose garden twice a month. This will be a great way to learn about roses and have hands on experience! Please consider this because this is a very urgent need.

Contact me as soon as possible at 910.686.1871.

--Patti

Pot Growing Without Pots

by Harold Baker

There was a period in my life when I was willing to put forth any amount of effort to raise good roses. In recent years my thoughts have turned to how can I spend a minimal amount of time in the garden and still grow good roses. I don’t mind planning and executing projects such as preparing beds, installing watering systems, and selecting the best varieties for my small garden. What I don’t like to do is spend time on repetitive tasks like spraying, fertilizing, dead heading, watering, weeding, etc. The quest for an easier way to grow high quality roses has caused me to progress through six different methods of growing minis.

First I grew minis on their own roots in the ground in the same manner as all other rosarians did at that time. The second phase was to grow minis on their own roots in very high raised beds. To my knowledge I was one of the first to do this in colder climates such as we had in Illinois. The minis loved it and I enjoyed them much more when they were at a height where I could see the blooms closely without breaking my back. It made taking care of them much easier.

I entered my third phase after moving to Florida. I started growing my minis on their own roots in 7 1/2 gallon pots in soilless mixes (Fafard #2 & #3B). The pots were buried in the ground. The bushes grew more vigorously in these mixes than in anything else I had ever tried, and if I wanted to give a plant away it was really easy to pick up the pot and hand it to them. However, there were a few drawbacks. The plants grew so well and threw up so many new shoots that it made it difficult to water the pots except by hand. It was particularly difficult for an automatic system to wet the entire surface of the pot, which was something I desired. The dense mass of shoots also made spraying for disease and controlling spider mites more difficult.

Therefore, my next phase was to solve this problem by grafting my minis onto Fortuniana rootstock. I made the grafts about 10 inches above the ground level. This really helped. By eliminating all the stalks at ground level, except the one for the rootstock, a Dramn watering system once again worked fine. There was not as great a potential for blackspot as before since all the foliage was well above any splash zone. Reaching underneath the foliage to spray and water wand was a snap. The stem length is probably twice as long as when grown on own roots. Foliage size is normal. Bloom size is related to how much one fertilizes. I am having to learn that my minis don’t need to eat every time that I eat.

But I had a new problem to solve. What is the best way to grow minis on Fortuniana? This led to phase four and five. The literature says that most of the Fortuniana roots are in the top 10” of soil and that they are very long. Some have recorded lengths of 16 ft. It seemed unlikely that they would be happy in a pot but one can never be sure. I ran a test to find out. Whenever I grafted a variety I always made two. One of these I planted in a carefully prepared bed of sand, manure and all the other goodies. The other one went to my good friends Bob and Angie Heatwole to be grown in 10 gallon pots containing my favorite soilless mix (Fafard #3B).

I have discovered several things as a result of these tests. The roses in pots in the soilless mix jumped off to an early start. They quickly outgrew the ones grown in the ground just as they had done previously when the minis were on their own roots. Roses grown in Central Florida never really stop growing. They just slow down during January and February. Would the roots quickly fill the pot and choke off growth while the ones in the ground took off like gangbusters? No, it didn’t happen that way. However, the ones in the ground did, after a much slower start, also began to turn in a very good performance. But they exhibit more variability in their growth than those grown in pots with a soilless mix. I would say at this time about 1/3 of the in ground bushes are larger and about 2/3 of them are smaller than those grown in the pots. Those in the pots are much more uniform in size.

I would rate the performance of those grown in the ground soils as very good and those grown in pots with the soilless mixes as excellent. Analyzing all this data lead me to my present phase #6. In this method I am trying to obtain almost all the advantages of both the in ground and the soilless mix in a pot method. Basically, I reasoned that it was not the pot itself that made the minis grow so well but that it was the soilless mix within the pot. Since I put the pot in the ground anyway to maintain a better temperature for the root ball, why not just dig a hole in the prepared bed the size of the pot and fill it with the soilless mix that the roses seemed to love. It would be easier to water the surface of the bed than it would be to water inside a pot and I shouldn’t have to worry about the minis getting root bound. I could make the “pot” large enough that I could grow a large bush even if the roots did not grow outside the “pot”. On the other hand, if an adventurous root wanted to leave the soilless mix and venture out into the prepared bed, there would be no pot wall there to stop it. This method would also give me the freedom to not only decide the volume of the “pot” but the shape of it as well.

The 10-gallon size seemed to be working great for minis so I decided to stay with that volume. However, if most of the Fortuniana roots want to stay in the top 10 to 12 inches of soil it would appear to be a more efficient use of the volume if I designed my “pot” to be only 11 inches deep but with a larger diameter than it would have if I used the dimensions of a regular 10 gallon pot. The diameter I am using for the minis is 17 inches.

I use the following procedure. I take a bamboo stick and loop one end of a piece of twist-tie around it and loop the other end of the twist-tie around a pencil 81/2 inches away. I stick the bamboo stake in the ground where the center of the bush will be and scribe a 17” dia. circle in the dirt with the pencil. My standard garden shovel blade is 11 inches tall, so I don’t have to measure the depth of the hole. Just dig it out to the full depth of the shovel. I pour the Fafard #3B soilless mix into 5 gallon buckets, which are then filled with water. I want to make sure the sphagnum peat moss in the mix is completely soaked before it goes in the hole so it will not try to pull moisture from the roots. I only put a thin layer of mix in the bottom of the hole since the 2 or 3-gallon pots that I am transplanting from are almost as tall as the hole. I mix 1/2 cup of superphosphate uniformly throughout this bottom layer. I then make a little pocket just at the edge of where the 3-gallon plant will sit and fill it with another 1/2 cup of superphosphate without mixing. Then I spread a thin layer of Milorganite over the entire surface and set the root ball directly on it. Wet mix is added around the root ball to within 1/2 inch of the ground level. 1/2 cup of Osmocote is uniformly spread across the surface and covered with another 1/2 inch of wet mix. Water well a couple of times to settle everything in and add mulch.

The early results are outstanding. Do I think there is a still better way? Absolutely! There is always a better way, otherwise I wouldn’t be on my sixth improved version. If you know of a better way, or have a suggestion on how to improve this method, please share it with me. Write, telephone or if you want to do it by E-mail contact me at BAKEinFL@aol.com. BAKEinFL is in recognition of the fact that Lakeland has the unfortunate distinction of being the hottest city in peninsular Florida.

Incidentally, this method works so well that I now use it for all new plantings of my large roses. The size of my large rose “pot” is 11 inches deep and 24 inches in diameter and I use one cup of Osmocote. The results look equally great with the big roses.

Harold Baker is a Life Horticultural Judge and Consulting Rosarian His winnings include Canada’s Paul B. Saunders National Challenge Class as well as the HT Queen and the Best Rose in the Show at the 1985 International Rose Show. He has also won the National Horace Mc Farland, the Earl of Warwick Urn, and the Jan Shivers, Ralph Moore, and Robert & Mildred Lawton National Miniature Trophies.

Reprinted from the www.augustarosesociety.org web page.

WEDGES

By Harold Baker, Lakeland, FL.

Can we all agree that roses in a rose show should be displayed in as beautiful a manner as possible? This usually requires a wedge to enable an individual specimen to stand up straight and tall like a Queen, and is absolutely essential in Challenge Classes to precisely establish the relative position of the specimens.

There are two common arguments employed against the use of wedges. The first argument is that the wedges are sometimes shoved inside the vase and some people have had bad experiences attempting to remove them. Make yourself a tool by taking a coat hanger wire and bending the tip to make a hook that will just slip through the neck of the vase. Turn the vase upside down, insert the "extractor tool", place the open hook above the errant wedge and pull down. The wedge is pulled out easily every time unless the wedge is made of a sticky material like floral clay which should be prohibited.

The second argument against the use of wedges is that some specimens are difficult or impossible to water. This is true if a person thinks they need to plug the entire opening of the vase to hold the stem securely but this is faulty thinking. There is no problem in watering a properly wedged specimen if the person uses a laboratory squeeze bottle with nozzle. You would be surprised how fast a sloppy wedger learns the proper way after he sees two or three of his roses wilt because he has crammed the neck of the vase full of wedging material instead of doing it properly.

These bad experiences have became widespread in recent years as a result of people writing in their schedules that the only wedging material allowed is clear plastic. This is a material that is entirely unsuitable for use as a wedge. The person who started this practice apparently forgot that the primary objective is to make the rose look beautiful not the wedge.

I consider the green Styrofoam wedge to be the "Cadillac" of wedges and it's use should be allowed in all rose shows. Let me make it clear at this point that I am not talking about Oasis. Green Styrofoam is available in sheets of 1 inch and 2 inch thickness at craft stores. If you have a choice purchase the 1 inch thickness. The same material is commonly found in a white color at your discount retailers. You may want to share your purchase with others since one sheet of Styrofoam will make several hundred wedges.

Lay the sheet of Styrofoam on a cutting board and slice off strips about 5/16 to 3/8 inch thick just as though you were slicing ham. A pocket knife works well. If you are using 2 inch thick material recut these slices so they are 1 inch "tall". Lay the slice flat and make a diagonal cut so the length along the top of the wedge is about 1/2 inch and the length along the bottom edge is about 3/4 inch. Now cut the second wedge by making a square cut so the bottom edge is about 1/2 inch and the top edge is about 3/4 inch long. See figure #1.

After you make the first two or three wedges try them and make any required adjustments in size. There will be no need to measure each one. Their size doesn't need to be that exact. However, it is important that you use them properly. Grasp the stem of the rose in your left hand and hold the stem about 1/4 inch higher in the vase than you wish it's final position to be. Then place the square edge of the wedge against the stem and the tapered edge against the tapered mouth of the vase. Naturally the small 1/2 inch width is down. Then press the wedge and the stem down together (the wedge shouldn't slide against the stem) until the top of the wedge is lower than the top of the vase. The stem should be secure and you should see a narrow slot opening on each side of the wedge. This will allow water to be placed down through one opening while air bubbles escape up through the opposite opening. Make a second batch of thinner wedges to use for Miniatures by slicing off 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick strips from the main block, then following the same procedure that you used for the big wedges. Put the wedges in baggies and you are ready to go to the show.

This wedge has it all. It not only looks better than clear plastic but it truly does hold the specimen securely. It only takes a second to press it into place while clear plastic can consume inordinate amounts of time trying to get it right. All this and you can still water the rose! Make the wedges up ahead of time. It takes a lot longer to read about them than it does to make them. You can make up all you need for a rose show while you sit through one those mind numbing TV shows one evening. Try them and I am sure that you will love them.

Reprinted from the www.augustarosesociety.org web page.

Rose care

Augusta Rose Society recommendations for buying and planting roses

Site selection

Select an area that:

Receives 6 hours or more of direct sunlight each day;

Is well drained (beds raised with railroad ties or bricks provide the best drainage);

Will be free from competition with roots from trees and shrubs;

Allows plants to be placed 4 feet from each other.

Soil preparation

Dig a hole measuring 1½ feet across by 1½ feet deep. Separate and save the topsoil; remove a portion and send to the local county agent for a soil analysis.

Refill the hole with a mixture that is roughly one-half humus (sphagnum peat moss, compost, etc.) and one-half existing topsoil, and contains 2 cups of dolomitic limestone, 1 cup of super phosphate, and 1 cup of gypsum. If the topsoil is heavy clay, incorporate more gypsum in the backfill.

Water the new soil mixture well and allow it to settle and mellow before planting. When the soil test results arrive, contact a Consulting Rosarian or successful rose grower to discuss the results.

Importance of soil preparation: common cultural problems

Nitrogen shortage

Young leaves small, pale green. Red spots sometimes develop. Early leaf fall. Stems stunted and weak.

To correct, apply compound fertilizer.

Phosphate shortage

Young leaves small and dark green, with purplish tints on underside. Early leaf fall. Stems stunted and weak. To correct, apply compound fertilizer.

Potash shortage

Young leaves red; mature leaves green with brown, brittle margins. Flowers small. To correct, apply compound fertilizer.

Magnesium shortage

Leaves pale in center, with dead areas close to midrib. Oldest leaves worst affected. Early leaf fall. To correct, apply fertilizer containing magnesium.

Iron shortage

Leaves with large yellow areas. Young leaves worst affected -- almost entirely yellow. Avoid over liming.

Manganese shortage

Leaves with yellow bands between veins. Oldest leaves worst affected. Avoid over liming.

Vs. frost damage, for comparison

Affected leaves crinkled and torn, with brown markings. Yellow patches sometimes appear.

Planting (bare root)

Bare-root roses are those received through mail-order nurseries or those newly potted roses for sale in January and February at local nurseries. Great care must be taken with these plants to prevent damage by dehydration of the roots and stems. Soak the rose in water several hours or overnight before planting. Newly potted roses should also be removed from the pot and soaked.

Remove enough soil mixture from the hole to allow room to form a cone-shaped mound to support the plant. The top of the cone should be 2 inches below ground level so the bud union (the large knot where the rootstock is grafted to the upper portion of the rose) will be positioned 1 to 2 inches above ground level.

Prune the tip of each root to encourage formation of a callous, which will result in more rapid root growth.

Place the rootstock on top of the cone and verify that the bud union is positioned correctly. The roots should spread out and down into the hole. Working quickly to avoid dehydration, refill the hole with alternate layers of water and soil mix. Do not pack the soil.

To prevent dehydration of the canes, mound extra soil around the plant until only the tips of the canes are exposed. If no extra soil is available, cover the plant with an inverted brown paper grocery sack. Cut the tips of the comers from the sack to allow some sunlight and air to reach the plant. Continue to remove soil gradually (or cut more of the bottom from the sack) until the plant is completely exposed.

Water new plants frequently to stimulate growth!

Buying roses

Buy roses from reputable sources – a licensed garden center or nursery, an established rose company or from a well-known mail-order house.

You generally expect to pay higher prices for better quality plants.

Rose plants are graded No. 1, No. 1½ and No. 2 based on the size and number of canes.

No. 1 indicates the top quality, and these plants have 3-5 canes (3/8 inches in diameter or larger) 18 inches long.

No. 1½ will have two canes 15 inches long.

No. 2 will have two canes 12 inches long.

Buy plants with vigorous appearing canes and avoid those that appear shriveled or dehydrated.

Dormant (not actively growing) rose plants become available usually in late December or early January as bare-root items. These plants are shipped from the grower’s refrigerator in large plastic bags and are potted up by the local nurseries. These should not be marketed as container-grown plants.

There is no good study available to indicate that waxed roses are inferior in the long term. (Waxing consists of dipping the canes into a wax bath to prevent desiccation.)

Water and mulch

Watering is best done with a system which uses emitter heads near each plant, or with a system which employs nozzles that spray in a low, horizontal fashion to several plants at once. Soaker hoses are equally effective. Roses perform better when watered heavily; in mid-summer, plants require water two or even three times a week. Allow each bush to receive several gallons at each watering. Be certain to water before each weekly spraying and prior to any fertilizer application. A one- to two-inch layer of mulch will help conserve water and keep feeder roots cool. Recommended materials are pine straw or pine bark.

Fertilizing

The specific fertilizer required for each rose bed is determined by soil-test results. In general, most gardens require one-half cup of a complete granular fertilizer such as 10-10-10 applied monthly. Organic fertilizers such as manures may be used as a supplement to the monthly feedings. An application of a timed-release fertilizer such as Osmocote 18-6-12 used at the rate of four to six ounces per plant will feed roses for several months. Soluble fertilizers may be used also to perk up an ailing plant or as a supplement to any of the programs listed above.

Soil pH and liming

Roses perform best at a soil pH of about 6.7. At this optimum pH, the fertilizers applied are used efficiently and effectively. Unless dolomitic limestone is applied each year to our naturally acid soils, the pH will become so low (5 - 5.5) that plants can only use a fraction of the fertilizer placed in the soil. A yearly soil test is needed to make certain the pH remains approximately 6.7. As a general rule of thumb, approximately 2 cups of dolomitic limestone should be applied per plant each year in the fall.

Reprinted from the www.augustarosesociety.org web site.

CLUB BYLAWS

WILMINGTON CAPE FEAR ROSE SOCIETY (WCFRS)

ORGANIZED MARCH 2003

Affiliated with the American Rose Society

BYLAWS

ARTICLE I

Name

Section 1. This Society shall be known as the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) and it shall be affiliated with the American Rose Society.

ARTICLE II

Objective

Section 1. The object of this Society is to study, foster and encourage the culture of roses in every practicable way and exhibit roses properly conditioned and of the highest quality possible.

ARTICLE III

Membership

Section 1. All persons interested in and who grow roses shall be eligible to apply for membership.

Section 2. Application for membership shall be submitted through the Second Vice President or Treasurer, as Membership Chairman, to the Board of Directors for election. The Board of Directors may revoke the membership of any member for just cause.

Section 3. A single payment of dues shall entitle both husband and wife or other “double membership” to be listed as embers if they so desire. (See Article XIII, Section 1)

Section 4. Members who fail to pay dues by March 1 of any year shall be considered as having dropped their membership and their names shall be stricken from the roll.

Section 5. Members moving to other communities shall be recommended to the Society nearest their new residence, if they so desire.

ARTICLE IV

Honorary Offices and Titles

Section 1. A person may be elected as an Honorary member by a two-thirds vote of the members present and voting. Such elections shall specify whether the membership is annual, terminating at the end of the current year, or for life.

Section 2. The Honorary title of President-Emeritus, as defined in the ARS Bylaws may be bestowed upon any past president the Society thus chooses to honor by a two-thirds vote of those present and voting.

ARTICLE V

Voting

Section 1. Only elective members shall vote, it being understood that husband-wife, sister-brother, etc., participating on a single membership shall have one vote each. (See Article XIII, Section 1, under dues)

Section 2. Voting shall be by ballot when there is any contest for office.

ARTICLE VI

Officers

Section 1. The officers of this Society shall be a President, First Vice President, Second Vice President and a Secretary-Treasurer or Secretary and Treasurer.

Section 2. Elections shall be held at the November meeting. Officers shall be installed at the December meeting and shall hold office for twenty four months (two years), beginning the following January 1^st, or in emergency, until their successors are chosen.

ARTICLE VII

Duties of Officers

Section 1. The President shall preside at all meetings of the Society and of the Board of Directors. He/she may call meetings of the Board of Directors at any time or meetings of the Society with the approval of the Board of Directors and shall be an ex-officio member of all committees, except the Nominating Committee. He/she shall appoint all committees not otherwise provided for in the Bylaws.

Section 2. The first Vice President shall be Program Chairman and shall plan activities of the Society. He/she shall preside when the President is absent or otherwise unable to act.

Section 3. The Second Vice President shall be Membership Chairman, and it shall be his/her duty to widen membership to include as many interested persons as possible. He/she shall preside in the absence of both the President and First Vice President.

Section 4. The Secretary and Treasurer shall keep records of all meetings of the Society, record all votes and maintain all necessary contacts with the American Rose Society. He/she shall receive and account for all funds of this Society, paying all bills by check and keeping funds of deposit in a bank approved by the Board of Directors.

ARTICLE VIII

Government

Section 1. The Board of Directors shall consist of the Executive Committee (Officers) and the members of the Advisory Board.

ARTICLE IX

Duties of Boards

Section 1. The Board of Directors shall plan the affairs of the Society and shall be empowered to transact any business not involving change of policy of this Society. In the event of a vacancy, the Board of Directors shall elect a member to fill the unexpired term.

Section 2. The Board of Directors shall coordinate the affairs of this Society with those of the American Rose Society, maintaining the Society’s affiliation with the American Rose Society. This board shall secure the judges for Horticulture. The Chairman of this board shall meet with judges prior to Rose Shows for orientation and instructions.

ARTICLE X

Meetings

Section 1. Meetings shall be held on the designated Saturday of each month at 10:00 a.m., unless otherwise provided. Summer meetings shall be arranged in the form of garden tours at which no business shall be transacted, unless prior notice has been given.

Section 2. The Board of Directors shall meet prior to regular meetings unless otherwise provided; time and place to be determined by the President.

Section 3. The December meeting shall be the annual banquet at which time the officers shall be installed.

ARTICLE XI

Quorum

Section 1. A quorum for any regular meeting shall consist of a majority of those present of the active members of this Society.

Section 2. A quorum for any meeting of the Board of Directors shall consist of a majority of those present members.

ARTICLE XII

Committees

Section 1. A Nominating Committee of three members shall be named at the October meeting. The chairman shall be appointed by the President, the remaining two being elected from the floor. This committee shall present a slate of suitable candidates for officers at the November meeting. Nominations from the floor are in order at this time. Any member of the Nominating Committee is eligible to serve as an officer.

Section 2. The President, with the approval of the Board of Directors, shall appoint the Standing Committee Chairmen.

Section 3. The Standing Committees shall be Hospitality, Horticulture, Telephone, News, Publications, Historian, and Rose Show Chairman.

Section 4. The terms of all committees shall expire on December 31^st, if not on a specified prior date.

ARTICLE XIII

Dues

Section 1. Each individual member of “double membership,” such as husband-wife, sister-brother, etc. (under same household), shall pay annual dues of $15.00 for membership in this Society, or they may pay $52.00 entitling them to membership in the American Rose Society, as well as this Society.

Section 2. Dues shall be payable as of January 1^st and not later than March 1^stor, in the case of new embers, when billed by the Treasurer.

ARTICLE XIV

Publication

Section 1. There shall be an informative publication to be known as The Coastal Rose whose editor shall be appointed by the President and who shall serve for two years and be eligible for reappointment.

Section 2. The Coastal Rose (newsletter) shall be issued as a matter of policy, but the editor may combine issues for certain months at his/her discretion.

ARTICLE XV

Shows and Exhibits

Section 1. A rose show shall be held each year on a date to be determined by the Board of Directors not later than February. The Board of Directors shall secure the judges for horticulture at this time.

Section 2. All shows shall be open to members in good standing of this Society or of any other Society or Club in good standing as recognized by the American Rose Society.

Section 3. The Show Chairman shall establish separate classes for nonmembers and novices to be eligible for any award except District and National.

Section 4. To encourage active attendance, a “Challenge” class may be established by the Schedule Chairman, eligible to members attending five or more meetings from one show date until the next. A permanent trophy should be given in this class.

Section 5. All shows shall be under the direction of the Board of Directors and the Show Committee Chairman, appointed by the President.

Section 6. Informal competition may be held at the discretion of the Board of Directors.

ARTICLE XVI

Parliamentary Authority

Section 1. “Robert’s Rule of Order, Revised” shall govern the Society in all cases to which they are applicable and in which they are not inconsistent with the Bylaws and the special Rules of Order of this Society.

Section 2. In any case where these Bylaws conflict with the Bylaws of the American Rose Society, the latter shall prevail.

ARTICLE XVII

Section 1. These Bylaws may be amended at any regular meeting of the Society by a two-thirds vote of those present and voting, provided written notice has been given the membership.

RULES OF ORDER

1. Call to Order

2. Reading and Disposition of the minutes.

3. Treasurer’s Report.

4. Admission of new members.

5. Reports of Officers.

6. Reports of Boards (Board of Directors).

7. Reports of Standing Committees.

8. Nomination and election of Officers (November only).

9. Unfinished business.

10. Reading of communications by Secretary or Presdient.

11. New Business.

12. Program

13. Installation of Officers (December only).

14. Adjournment.

Purchasing Roses

Since we are all still dreaming of next year’s garden, we are repeating the list of rose growers who may be able to offer you varieties you want, but can’t find locally.

US Vendors

Amity Heritage Roses - San Jose, CA

Antique Rose Emporium - Benham, TX

Arena Rose Company - Paso Robles, CA

Armstrong Garden Centers - Glendora, CA

Ashdown Roses - Landrum, SC

Bay Laurel Nursery - Atascadero, CA

Bracken Garden Center - Redding, CA

Bridges Roses - Lawndale, NC

The Cabbage Rose - Clermont, FL

Carlton Roses - Carlton, OR

Chamblee Roses - Tyler, TX

Countryside Roses - Hattiesburg, MS

Edmunds Roses - Wilsonville, OR

Garden Valley Roses - Petaluma, CA

Fork and Spade - formerly Grow Spot .com- Modesto. Ca

Heirloom Roses - St. Paul, OR

High Country Roses - Jensen, UT

Jackson & Perkins

J&P Greenhouse Roses

Johnny Becnel -

K&M Nursery - Buckatunna, Ms.39322

Ph - 601-648-2908

FAX - 601-648-2151

Landscape USA - Salem, OR

Liggett's Rose Nursery - San Jose, CA

Limberlost Nursery - Van Nuys, CA

Linda's Antique Roses - San Marcos, TX

Mary's Plant Farm - Hamilton, OH

Melrose Plantation - Lancaster, VA

Michael's Premier Roses - Sacramento, CA

The Mini Rose Garden - Cross Hill, SC

Mission Hills Nursery - San Diego, CA

Montgomery Rose Company - Hadley, MA

Muncy's Florida Rose Emporium - Sarasota, FL

Nelson's Florida Roses - Apopka, FL

Nor'East Miniature Roses - Rowley, MA

Northland Rosarium - Spokane, WA

Old Sheep Meadows Nursery - Alfred, ME

Orion Farm - Waverly, MN

Otto & Sons Nursery - Fillmore, CA

Peaceful Habitations Rose Gardens - Boerne, TX

Petaluma Rose Company - Petaluma, CA

Ralph Moore's Sequoia Nursery - Visalia, CA

Regan Nursery - Fremont, CA

Rose Fire, Ltd. - Edon, OH

Rose Hill Garden - Ethel, LA

Rose King Gardens - Loxahatchee/West Palm Beach, Fl NEW

Rosemania - Nashville, TN

Roseraie at Bayfields - Waldoboro, ME

Roses Unlimited - Laurens, SC

Roses of Yesterday and Today - Watsonville, CA

S&W Greenhouse - White House, TN

Sam Kedem Roses - Hastings, MN

Spring Valley Roses - Spring Valley, WI

Star Roses

Teas Nursery - Houston, TX

Tiny Petals Nursery - Chula Vista, CA

The Uncommon Rose - Corvallis, OR

Vintage Gardens - Sebastopol, CA

Wayside Gardens - Hodges, SC

Weeks Roses - Upland, CA

White Rabbit Roses - Elk, CA

Windswept Gardens - Bangor, ME

Wisconsin Roses - Kenosha, WI

Witherspoon Rose Culture - Durham, NC

Canadian Vendors

Aldershot Greenhouses - Burlington, ONT

Anglegrove Tree Seed Company - Harbour Grace, NEWF

Enderlein Nurseries - No. Ontario, ONT

Hortico Nurseries - Waterdown, ONT

Martin & Kraus - Carlisle, ONT

Old Heirloom Roses - Halifax, NS

Old Rose Nursery - Hornby Island, BC

Pickering Nurseries - Pickering, ONT

Russian Roses For The North - Grand Forks, BC

Sylvan Roses - Kelowna, BC

Valderose Gardens - Chatham, ONT

European Vendors

Apuldram Roses - West Sussex, ENG

Belle Epoque Rose Nurseries - Aalsmeer, Netherlands

C&K Jones Internet Rose Catalog - Cheshire, ENG

David Austin Roses - Wolverhampton, ENG

De Ruiter's International - Netherlands

Fryer's Roses - Cheshire, ENG

Harkness Roses - Hertfordshire, ENG

Jan Spek Roses BV - Holland

W. Kordes' Sohne - GER

Mattocks Roses - Oxford, ENG

Meilland Roses - France

Notcutts Nurseries and Garden Centers - Suffolk & Surrey, ENG

OmniFlora - Frankfurt, GER

Peter Beales' Roses - Norfolk, ENG

Roses Guillot - Chamagnieu, FR

Tantau's Roses (Rosen Tantau) - Uetersen, GER

Walter Bartoli Roses - Orvieto, Italy

Vendors from "Down Under"

Finegand Nursery - Balclutha, NZ

Ross Roses - Willunga, AUS

Tasman Bay Roses - South Island, NZ

Treloar Roses of Australia - Portland, Vict., AUS

Rosey Events

December 13, 2003

Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society

Meeting at the Arboretum auditorium, 10:00am – noon.

“Pot Luck Christmas Brunch” meeting. See the President’s message for more details.

2004 Projected Schedule

Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society

Meeting Schedule

January 24^th 10-12 (noon)

February 28^th 10-12 (noon)

March 20th 10-12 (noon)

April 24^th 9-11 AM

May 22^nd 10-12 (noon)

June 26^th 10-12(noon)

July 31^st 10-12 (noon)

August 28^th 10-12 (noon)

September 25^th 10-12 (noon)

October 30^th 10-12 (noon)

November 20^th 10-12 (noon)

December 18^th 10-12 (noon)

Dates are subject to change due to events such as Rose Garden tours. All meetings will be in the auditorium at the Arboretum unless specified.

Meet Your Officers

At the first meeting of the WCFRS, the following officers were elected:

President: Patti Hartzell

217 Salt Brick Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.1871

email: NCRoseLady@aol.com

1st VP Program Chair: Bill Hartzell

217 Salt Brick Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.1871

email: NCRoseLady@aol.com

2nd VP Membership Chair: Jack Hudson

1610 Cottswald Court

Wilmington, NC 28411

Phone: 910.793.0114

email: jmtal@ec.rr.com

Secretary: Jennifer Arcuri

109 Cale Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 686.1432

Email: jlmjlm@bellsouth.net

Treasurer: Kim Landis

108 Stonehead Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.3025

Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com

Historian: Cindy Black

102 Stonehead Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.0545

Email: Cacob0545@aol.com

Newsletter Editor: Amy Padgett

622 Baldwin Elkins Road

Clarkton, NC 28433

Phone: 910.645.6417

Email: amy@amypadgett.com

Gardening web site: www.amypadgett.com

Co-editor: Annie Brittin

1735 Fairway Drive

Wilmington, NC 28403

Phone:910.815.2941

Email: Brittin@dellepro.com

Hospitality Chair: Bob & Pat Moore

4114 Kittiwake Court

Southport, NC 28461

Phone: 910.253.7519

Email: bobrtm@earthlink.net

Parlamentarian: Tom Landis

108 Stonehead Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.3025

Email: TOWILA59@yahoo.com

Email Chair: Jack Hudson

1610 Cottswald Court

Wilmington, NC 28411

Phone: 910.793.0114

Email: jmta1@ec.rr.com

Publicity Chair: Marla Trobaugh

209 Salt Brick Court

Wilmington, NC 28411-7855

Phone: 910.686.9077

Email: trobaughm@uncw.edu

Photography: Nell Crosby

6300 Red Cedar Road

Wilmington, NC 28411

Phone: 910.686.9998

Email: captjoekc@aol.com

Special Thanks

We would like to thank the following people and businesses for supporting the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society in a variety of ways.

Catlin

220 Old Dairy Road

Wilmington, NC 28405

Contact: Thomas W. Landis

Hobby Greenhouse Club for their generous $25.00 donation.

Thanks to Our Members

Thanks to all the members of WCFRS who have made this society so successful. If we have missed any family members or any corrections are needed, please contact Jack Hudson, 910.793.0114 or email jmta1@ec.rr.com.

Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society Members:

Tom Huckelberry

Tom & Kim Landis

Terry & Marge Preiss

Ted & Annie Brittin

Scott & Judy Szabo

Russel Holt

Roberta Northern

Richard Pipkin

Paul & Carol Rodriguez

Patricia Holt

Nicole Rollins

Neal & Ginny Patrick

Nancy Millard

Ms. Lori Hardee

Ms. Barbara Hardison

Molly Ley

Margaret Whitesell

Louise Ramsdell

Lorraine Carter

Claude & Lori Efird

Linda White & George Phillips

Linda Farmer

Kevin McSharry & Teresa Butler

Joseph & Marla Trobaugh

John & Melissa Tallery

Joe Latham

Joe & Nell Crosby

Jim & Ozella Stanley

Jennifer Arcuri

Janice & Joe Clifford

James & Bonita Phelps

Jack & Marilyn Hudson

Howie Strauss

Jim & Barbara Hardy

George & Bunny Froehlich

Gary & Patty Stephens

Frank & Connie Piscetelli

Faye B. Haywood

Ernest & Kay Templeton

Emile & Nancy Carrier

Edward & Diane Larson

Ed & Lenna Easter

Derek & Mercades D. Noakes

Denise Lee

David & Cindy Black

Carol Mathewson

Carlos & Arlene "Rose" Nazario

Bob & Traci Leroy

Bob & Pat Moore

Bill & Patti Hartzell

Annette Johnson

Amy Goebel Padgett

Alex & Maria Cummings

Mike & Debbie Caulder

Members: Please send any updates for your information including home address, phone number and e-mail address to Jack Hudson at jmta1@ec.rr.com, or you may call him at 910-793-0114. Thank you

Disclaimer: While the information and recommendations in this newsletter are believed to be correct, neither the authors, editors, nor the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) can accept responsibility for errors or omissions that may be made. The WCFRS makes no warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material contained herein.