Vol 2/Issue 1, January 2004
To Contact: WCFRS
C/O Patti Hartzell
217 Salt Brick Court
Wilmington, NC 28411-7855
E-mail: WCFRSNC@aol.com
Welcome! to
the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) newsletter, The Costal Rose with articles about growing and enjoying roses in
the coastal North Carolina area.
Suggestion and questions are
welcomed. We encourage you to submit
them to us using the e-mail or postal address listed above.
Check out our web page at: http://carolinadistrict.org/WCFRS/index.htm
Note: This will be the last issue for calendar
year 2003, so the next issue will be Volume 2, Issue 1, for January, 2004.
President’s
Message
Hi
there Rose Buds!
Happy 2004!
Our fist meeting of 2004 has
been changed to January 24th.
We didn’t want to conflict with the Carolina District meeting on January
31 so thought it best to reschedule in case any of you wanted to attend the
Winter Workshop meeting. Please make
note of this change on your calendars.
Louise Ramsdale has a wonderful presentation on “The History of the
Rose”. This is an education you will
not want to miss if you are interested in the history and the meaning of our
National Flower. She will be available
to answer any questions that you may have.
I know you all are getting
excited about spring just around the corner, at least in here in
Wilmington! We are fortunate enough to
have a very short winter here and then before we know it, it’s time to dig out
the garden gloves, check out all the equipment and of course if you haven’t
yet, get your hands on all the rose catalogues you can and start ordering. I would suggest you do that first because
sometimes those great roses you have been waiting to purchase could sell out
quickly. When ordering, make sure you
let them know that you are in zone 8…believe it or not. This will determine the correct shipping
date.
This is a good time to survey
your gardens and see what needs to be replaced, moved or just expanded. You can remove any leaves on the bush that
just didn’t want to let go of 2003 and on the ground and discard them in the
trash. I know it will be hard not to do
but do not prune your roses yet. Wait
until the forsythia blooms or another good timeline would be Valentines Day to
do that.
This is a good time to spray
with dormant oil, pesticides and fungicides to kill off any insect eggs present
as well prevent diseases.
Send off soil samples if you
did not do this in the fall. You can
obtain containers from the arboretum and the testing is free for residents of
NC…so far. Most states require a fee
for this service but we are lucky here in North Carolina.
Roses need watering in the
winter also. This will also protect them
from the cold weather.
Dues are due now for
2004. Please see Jack to renew your
dues. We are hoping to have a Society
card for all members this year. I am still
checking on that.
The Wilmington Cape Fear Rose
Society By Laws are available through Email now so if you would like a copy
please email me and I will forward a copy to you. They have also been included in this issue of the newsletter.
Please feel free to call me
anytime if you need help with anything.
Warm Regards & Happy New
Year!
Patti
We have an official checking account, so all checks for membership in
the society should be made out to the “Wilmington
Cape Fear Rose Society”.
American Rose Magazine
Anyone
interested in joining the American Rose Society (includes the American Rose magazine subscription)
should mail or hand our treasurer, Kim Landis, their subscription request along
with a check made out to "Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society" so that
Wilmington Cape Fear Rose society will receive $5.00. If the subscription is sent directly to ARS, we will not receive
the donation from American Rose Society.
Mail to:
Treasurer: Kim Landis
108
Stonehead Court
Wilmington,
NC 28411-7855
Phone:
910.686.3025
Special Notice:
Our president, Patti Hartzell, has been asked to speak at the Carolina
District Winter Meeting in Salisbury, NC.
This meeting runs from Jan 30 through Feb 1, 2004. Patti will be giving a presentation on Building and Keeping Members.
Additional information: The
Rowan Rose Society is hosting the Carolina District Winter Meeting at the
Holiday Inn in Salisbury, NC on January 30 and 31 and February 1, 2004. The Program Committee is lining up some
interesting classes including: Sandy Lundberg doing a New Rose slide
presentation; Sheree Wright on Kicking
the HT Habit; Fred Bettin on Companion
Plantin; Susan Waites on Arrangements;
a Member Garden Slide Presentation; and Howard Jones on growing roses in
containers before putting them in the garden.
On Saturday evening, there will be a banquet, entertainment and an
auction.
If you are interested in attending, contact Patti for a copy of the
registration form.
Arboretum Volunteers Requested
Our Rose Garden at the
arboretum is in need of volunteers.
This will involve pruning, weeding and gentle rose love & care twice
a month. I am requesting that at least
4 couples or 8 or more people volunteer to commit themselves to help take care
of the gardens from this point on because their curator and our valued society
member, Barbara Hardison, has moved out of the Wilmington area.
Please notify me as soon as
possible so that our rose gardens at the arboretum will not be neglected. You will be requested to help in the rose
garden twice a month. This will be a
great way to learn about roses and have hands on experience! Please consider this because this is a very
urgent need.
Contact me as soon as
possible at 910.686.1871.
--Patti
Pot Growing Without Pots
by Harold Baker
There was a period in my life
when I was willing to put forth any amount of effort to raise good roses. In recent years my thoughts have turned to
how can I spend a minimal amount of time in the garden and still grow good
roses. I don’t mind planning and
executing projects such as preparing beds, installing watering systems, and
selecting the best varieties for my small garden. What I don’t like to do is spend time on repetitive tasks like
spraying, fertilizing, dead heading, watering, weeding, etc. The quest for an easier way to grow high
quality roses has caused me to progress through six different methods of
growing minis.
First I grew minis on their own roots in the ground in the same manner as
all other rosarians did at that time.
The second phase was to grow minis on their own roots in very high
raised beds. To my knowledge I was one
of the first to do this in colder climates such as we had in Illinois. The minis loved it and I enjoyed them much
more when they were at a height where I could see the blooms closely without
breaking my back. It made taking care
of them much easier.
I entered my third phase after moving to Florida. I started growing my minis on their own
roots in 7 1/2 gallon pots in soilless mixes (Fafard #2 & #3B). The pots were buried in the ground. The bushes grew more vigorously in these
mixes than in anything else I had ever tried, and if I wanted to give a plant
away it was really easy to pick up the pot and hand it to them. However, there were a few drawbacks. The plants grew so well and threw up so many
new shoots that it made it difficult to water the pots except by hand. It was particularly difficult for an
automatic system to wet the entire surface of the pot, which was something I
desired. The dense mass of shoots also
made spraying for disease and controlling spider mites more difficult.
Therefore, my next phase was to solve this problem by grafting my minis
onto Fortuniana rootstock. I made the
grafts about 10 inches above the ground level.
This really helped. By
eliminating all the stalks at ground level, except the one for the rootstock, a
Dramn watering system once again worked fine.
There was not as great a potential for blackspot as before since all the
foliage was well above any splash zone.
Reaching underneath the foliage to spray and water wand was a snap. The
stem length is probably twice as long as when grown on own roots. Foliage size is normal. Bloom size is related to how much one
fertilizes. I am having to learn that
my minis don’t need to eat every time that I eat.
But I had a new problem to solve.
What is the best way to grow minis on Fortuniana? This led to phase four and five. The literature says that most of the
Fortuniana roots are in the top 10” of soil and that they are very long. Some have recorded lengths of 16 ft. It seemed unlikely that they would be happy
in a pot but one can never be sure. I
ran a test to find out. Whenever I
grafted a variety I always made two.
One of these I planted in a carefully prepared bed of sand, manure and
all the other goodies. The other one
went to my good friends Bob and Angie Heatwole to be grown in 10 gallon pots
containing my favorite soilless mix (Fafard #3B).
I have discovered several things as a result of these tests. The roses in pots in the soilless mix jumped
off to an early start. They quickly outgrew the ones grown in the ground just
as they had done previously when the minis were on their own roots. Roses grown in Central Florida never really
stop growing. They just slow down
during January and February. Would the
roots quickly fill the pot and choke off growth while the ones in the ground
took off like gangbusters? No, it didn’t happen that way. However, the ones in the ground did, after a
much slower start, also began to turn in a very good performance. But they exhibit more variability in their
growth than those grown in pots with a soilless mix. I would say at this time about 1/3 of the in ground bushes are
larger and about 2/3 of them are smaller than those grown in the pots. Those in the pots are much more uniform in
size.
I would rate the performance of those grown in the ground soils as very
good and those grown in pots with the soilless mixes as excellent. Analyzing all this data lead me to my
present phase #6. In this method I am
trying to obtain almost all the advantages of both the in ground and the soilless
mix in a pot method. Basically, I
reasoned that it was not the pot itself that made the minis grow so well but
that it was the soilless mix within the pot.
Since I put the pot in the ground anyway to maintain a better
temperature for the root ball, why not just dig a hole in the prepared bed the
size of the pot and fill it with the soilless mix that the roses seemed to
love. It would be easier to water the
surface of the bed than it would be to water inside a pot and I shouldn’t have
to worry about the minis getting root bound.
I could make the “pot” large enough that I could grow a large bush even
if the roots did not grow outside the “pot”.
On the other hand, if an adventurous root wanted to leave the soilless
mix and venture out into the prepared bed, there would be no pot wall there to
stop it. This method would also give me
the freedom to not only decide the volume of the “pot” but the shape of it as
well.
The 10-gallon size seemed to be working great for minis so I decided to
stay with that volume. However, if most
of the Fortuniana roots want to stay in the top 10 to 12 inches of soil it
would appear to be a more efficient use of the volume if I designed my “pot” to
be only 11 inches deep but with a larger diameter than it would have if I used
the dimensions of a regular 10 gallon pot.
The diameter I am using for the minis is 17 inches.
I use the following procedure. I take a bamboo stick and loop one end of a
piece of twist-tie around it and loop the other end of the twist-tie around a pencil
81/2 inches away. I stick the bamboo
stake in the ground where the center of the bush will be and scribe a 17” dia.
circle in the dirt with the pencil. My
standard garden shovel blade is 11 inches tall, so I don’t have to measure the
depth of the hole. Just dig it out to
the full depth of the shovel. I pour
the Fafard #3B soilless mix into 5 gallon buckets, which are then filled with
water. I want to make sure the sphagnum
peat moss in the mix is completely soaked before it goes in the hole so it will
not try to pull moisture from the roots.
I only put a thin layer of mix in the bottom of the hole since the 2 or
3-gallon pots that I am transplanting from are almost as tall as the hole. I mix 1/2 cup of superphosphate uniformly
throughout this bottom layer. I then
make a little pocket just at the edge of where the 3-gallon plant will sit and
fill it with another 1/2 cup of superphosphate without mixing. Then I spread a thin layer of Milorganite
over the entire surface and set the root ball directly on it. Wet mix is added around the root ball to
within 1/2 inch of the ground level.
1/2 cup of Osmocote is uniformly spread across the surface and covered
with another 1/2 inch of wet mix. Water
well a couple of times to settle everything in and add mulch.
The early results are outstanding. Do I think there
is a still better way? Absolutely! There is always a better way, otherwise I
wouldn’t be on my sixth improved version.
If you know of a better way, or have a suggestion on how to improve this
method, please share it with me. Write,
telephone or if you want to do it by E-mail contact me at
BAKEinFL@aol.com. BAKEinFL is in
recognition of the fact that Lakeland has the unfortunate distinction of being
the hottest city in peninsular Florida.
Incidentally, this method works so well that I now
use it for all new plantings of my large roses. The size of my large rose “pot” is 11 inches deep and 24 inches
in diameter and I use one cup of Osmocote.
The results look equally great with the big roses.
Harold Baker is a Life Horticultural Judge and
Consulting Rosarian His winnings
include Canada’s Paul B. Saunders National Challenge Class as well as the HT
Queen and the Best Rose in the Show at the 1985 International Rose Show. He has also won the National Horace Mc
Farland, the Earl of Warwick Urn, and the Jan Shivers, Ralph Moore, and Robert
& Mildred Lawton National Miniature Trophies.
WEDGES
By Harold Baker,
Lakeland, FL.
Can we
all agree that roses in a rose show should be displayed in as beautiful a
manner as possible? This usually requires a wedge to enable an individual
specimen to stand up straight and tall like a Queen, and is absolutely
essential in Challenge Classes to precisely establish the relative position of
the specimens.
There
are two common arguments employed against the use of wedges. The first argument
is that the wedges are sometimes shoved inside the vase and some people have
had bad experiences attempting to remove them. Make yourself a tool by taking a
coat hanger wire and bending the tip to make a hook that will just slip through
the neck of the vase. Turn the vase upside down, insert the "extractor
tool", place the open hook above the errant wedge and pull down. The wedge
is pulled out easily every time unless the wedge is made of a sticky material
like floral clay which should be prohibited.
The
second argument against the use of wedges is that some specimens are difficult
or impossible to water. This is true if a person thinks they need to plug the
entire opening of the vase to hold the stem securely but this is faulty
thinking. There is no problem in watering a properly wedged specimen if the
person uses a laboratory squeeze bottle with nozzle. You would be surprised how
fast a sloppy wedger learns the proper way after he sees two or three of his
roses wilt because he has crammed the neck of the vase full of wedging material
instead of doing it properly.
These
bad experiences have became widespread in recent years as a result of people
writing in their schedules that the only wedging material allowed is clear
plastic. This is a material that is entirely unsuitable for use as a wedge. The
person who started this practice apparently forgot that the primary
objective is to make the rose look beautiful not the wedge.
I
consider the green Styrofoam wedge to be the "Cadillac" of wedges and
it's use should be allowed in all rose shows. Let me make it clear at this
point that I am not talking about Oasis. Green Styrofoam is available in sheets
of 1 inch and 2 inch thickness at craft stores. If you have a choice purchase
the 1 inch thickness. The same material is commonly found in a white color at
your discount retailers. You may want to share your purchase with others since
one sheet of Styrofoam will make several hundred wedges.
Lay the
sheet of Styrofoam on a cutting board and slice off strips about 5/16 to 3/8
inch thick just as though you were slicing ham. A pocket knife works well. If
you are using 2 inch thick material recut these slices so they are 1 inch
"tall". Lay the slice flat and make a diagonal cut so the length
along the top of the wedge is about 1/2 inch and the length along the bottom
edge is about 3/4 inch. Now cut the second wedge by making a square cut so the
bottom edge is about 1/2 inch and the top edge is about 3/4 inch long. See
figure #1.
After
you make the first two or three wedges try them and make any required
adjustments in size. There will be no need to measure each one. Their size
doesn't need to be that exact. However, it is important that you use them
properly. Grasp the stem of the rose in your left hand and hold the stem about
1/4 inch higher in the vase than you wish it's final position to be. Then place
the square edge of the wedge against the stem and the tapered edge
against the tapered mouth of the vase. Naturally the small 1/2 inch width is
down. Then press the wedge and the stem down together (the wedge shouldn't
slide against the stem) until the top of the wedge is lower than the top of the
vase. The stem should be secure and you should see a narrow slot opening on
each side of the wedge. This will allow water to be placed down through one
opening while air bubbles escape up through the opposite opening. Make a second
batch of thinner wedges to use for Miniatures by slicing off 3/16 to 1/4 inch
thick strips from the main block, then following the same procedure that you
used for the big wedges. Put the wedges in baggies and you are ready to go to
the show.
This
wedge has it all. It not only looks better than clear plastic but it truly does
hold the specimen securely. It only takes a second to press it into place while
clear plastic can consume inordinate amounts of time trying to get it right.
All this and you can still water the rose! Make the wedges up ahead of time. It
takes a lot longer to read about them than it does to make them. You can make
up all you need for a rose show while you sit through one those mind numbing TV
shows one evening. Try them and I am sure that you will love them.
Rose care
Augusta Rose Society recommendations for
buying and planting roses
Select an area
that:
Receives
6 hours or more of direct sunlight each day;
Is
well drained (beds raised with railroad ties or bricks provide the best
drainage);
Will
be free from competition with roots from trees and shrubs;
Allows
plants to be placed 4 feet from each other.
Dig a hole
measuring 1½ feet across by 1½ feet deep. Separate and save the topsoil; remove
a portion and send to the local county agent for a soil analysis.
Refill the hole
with a mixture that is roughly one-half humus (sphagnum peat moss, compost,
etc.) and one-half existing topsoil, and contains 2 cups of dolomitic
limestone, 1 cup of super phosphate, and 1 cup of gypsum. If the topsoil is
heavy clay, incorporate more gypsum in the backfill.
Water the new soil
mixture well and allow it to settle and mellow before planting. When the soil
test results arrive, contact a Consulting Rosarian or successful rose grower to
discuss the results.
|
Importance of soil preparation: common cultural
problems |
||||||
|
Nitrogen shortage Young leaves small, pale green. Red spots sometimes
develop. Early leaf fall. Stems stunted and weak. To correct, apply compound fertilizer. |
Phosphate shortage Young leaves small and dark green, with purplish
tints on underside. Early leaf fall. Stems stunted and weak. To correct, apply
compound fertilizer. |
Potash shortage Young leaves red; mature leaves green with brown,
brittle margins. Flowers small. To correct, apply compound fertilizer. |
Magnesium shortage Leaves pale in center, with dead areas close to
midrib. Oldest leaves worst affected. Early leaf fall. To correct, apply
fertilizer containing magnesium. |
Iron shortage Leaves with large yellow areas. Young leaves worst
affected -- almost entirely yellow. Avoid over liming. |
Manganese shortage Leaves with yellow bands between veins. Oldest
leaves worst affected. Avoid over liming. |
Vs. frost damage, for comparison Affected leaves crinkled and torn, with brown
markings. Yellow patches sometimes appear. |
Bare-root roses are
those received through mail-order nurseries or those newly potted roses for
sale in January and February at local nurseries. Great care must be taken with
these plants to prevent damage by dehydration of the roots and stems. Soak the
rose in water several hours or overnight before planting. Newly potted roses
should also be removed from the pot and soaked.
Remove enough soil
mixture from the hole to allow room to form a cone-shaped mound to support the
plant. The top of the cone should be 2 inches below ground level so the bud
union (the large knot where the rootstock is grafted to the upper portion of
the rose) will be positioned 1 to 2 inches above ground level.
Prune the tip of
each root to encourage formation of a callous, which will result in more rapid
root growth.
Place the rootstock
on top of the cone and verify that the bud union is positioned correctly. The
roots should spread out and down into the hole. Working quickly to avoid
dehydration, refill the hole with alternate layers of water and soil mix. Do
not pack the soil.
To prevent
dehydration of the canes, mound extra soil around the plant until only the tips
of the canes are exposed. If no extra soil is available, cover the plant with
an inverted brown paper grocery sack. Cut the tips of the comers from the sack
to allow some sunlight and air to reach the plant. Continue to remove soil
gradually (or cut more of the bottom from the sack) until the plant is
completely exposed.
Water new plants
frequently to stimulate growth!
Buy roses from
reputable sources – a licensed garden center or nursery, an established rose
company or from a well-known mail-order house.
You generally
expect to pay higher prices for better quality plants.
|
|
Rose plants are graded No. 1, No. 1½ and No. 2 based
on the size and number of canes. |
No.
1 indicates the top quality, and these plants have 3-5 canes (3/8 inches in
diameter or larger) 18 inches long.
No.
1½ will have two canes 15 inches long.
No.
2 will have two canes 12 inches long.
|
|
Buy plants with vigorous appearing canes and avoid
those that appear shriveled or dehydrated. |
Dormant (not
actively growing) rose plants become available usually in late December or
early January as bare-root items. These plants are shipped from the grower’s
refrigerator in large plastic bags and are potted up by the local nurseries.
These should not be marketed as container-grown plants.
There is no good
study available to indicate that waxed roses are inferior in the long term.
(Waxing consists of dipping the canes into a wax bath to prevent desiccation.)
Watering is best
done with a system which uses emitter heads near each plant, or with a system
which employs nozzles that spray in a low, horizontal fashion to several plants
at once. Soaker hoses are equally effective. Roses perform better when watered
heavily; in mid-summer, plants require water two or even three times a week.
Allow each bush to receive several gallons at each watering. Be certain to
water before each weekly spraying and prior to any fertilizer application. A
one- to two-inch layer of mulch will help conserve water and keep feeder roots
cool. Recommended materials are pine straw or pine bark.
The specific
fertilizer required for each rose bed is determined by soil-test results. In
general, most gardens require one-half cup of a complete granular fertilizer
such as 10-10-10 applied monthly. Organic fertilizers such as manures may be
used as a supplement to the monthly feedings. An application of a timed-release
fertilizer such as Osmocote 18-6-12 used at the rate of four to six ounces per
plant will feed roses for several months. Soluble fertilizers may be used also
to perk up an ailing plant or as a supplement to any of the programs listed
above.
Roses perform best
at a soil pH of about 6.7. At this optimum pH, the fertilizers applied are used
efficiently and effectively. Unless dolomitic limestone is applied each year to
our naturally acid soils, the pH will become so low (5 - 5.5) that plants can
only use a fraction of the fertilizer placed in the soil. A yearly soil test is
needed to make certain the pH remains approximately 6.7. As a general rule of
thumb, approximately 2 cups of dolomitic limestone should be applied per plant
each year in the fall.
Reprinted from the www.augustarosesociety.org web
site.
CLUB BYLAWS
WILMINGTON CAPE FEAR ROSE SOCIETY (WCFRS)
ORGANIZED MARCH 2003
Affiliated with the American Rose Society
ARTICLE I
Name
Section 1. This Society shall be known as the Wilmington Cape Fear Rose Society (WCFRS) and it shall be affiliated with the American Rose Society.
ARTICLE II
Objective
Section 1. The object of this Society is to study,
foster and encourage the culture of roses in every practicable way and exhibit
roses properly conditioned and of the highest quality possible.
ARTICLE III
Membership
Section 1. All persons interested in and who grow
roses shall be eligible to apply for membership.
Section 2. Application for membership shall be
submitted through the Second Vice President or Treasurer, as Membership
Chairman, to the Board of Directors for election. The Board of Directors may revoke the membership of any member
for just cause.
Section 3. A single payment of dues shall entitle both
husband and wife or other “double membership” to be listed as embers if they so
desire. (See Article XIII, Section 1)
Section 4. Members who fail to pay dues by March 1 of
any year shall be considered as having dropped their membership and their names
shall be stricken from the roll.
Section 5. Members moving to other communities shall
be recommended to the Society nearest their new residence, if they so desire.
ARTICLE IV
Honorary Offices and Titles
Section 1. A person may be elected as an Honorary
member by a two-thirds vote of the members present and voting. Such elections shall specify whether the
membership is annual, terminating at the end of the current year, or for life.
Section 2. The Honorary title of President-Emeritus,
as defined in the ARS Bylaws may be bestowed upon any past president the
Society thus chooses to honor by a two-thirds vote of those present and voting.
ARTICLE V
Voting
Section 1. Only elective members shall vote, it being
understood that husband-wife, sister-brother, etc., participating on a single
membership shall have one vote each.
(See Article XIII, Section 1, under dues)
Section 2. Voting shall be by ballot when there is any
contest for office.
ARTICLE VI
Officers
Section 1. The officers of this Society shall be a
President, First Vice President, Second Vice President and a
Secretary-Treasurer or Secretary and Treasurer.
Section 2. Elections shall be held at the November
meeting. Officers shall be installed at
the December meeting and shall hold office for twenty four months (two years),
beginning the following January 1st, or in emergency, until their
successors are chosen.
ARTICLE VII
Duties of Officers
Section 1. The President shall preside at all meetings
of the Society and of the Board of Directors. He/she may call meetings of the
Board of Directors at any time or meetings of the Society with the approval of
the Board of Directors and shall be an ex-officio member of all committees,
except the Nominating Committee. He/she
shall appoint all committees not otherwise provided for in the Bylaws.
Section 2. The first Vice President shall be Program
Chairman and shall plan activities of the Society. He/she shall preside when the President is absent or otherwise
unable to act.
Section 3. The Second Vice President shall be
Membership Chairman, and it shall be his/her duty to widen membership to include
as many interested persons as possible.
He/she shall preside in the absence of both the President and First Vice
President.
Section 4. The Secretary and Treasurer shall keep
records of all meetings of the Society, record all votes and maintain all necessary
contacts with the American Rose Society.
He/she shall receive and account for all funds of this Society, paying
all bills by check and keeping funds of deposit in a bank approved by the Board
of Directors.
ARTICLE VIII
Government
Section 1. The Board of Directors shall consist of the
Executive Committee (Officers) and the members of the Advisory Board.
ARTICLE IX
Duties of Boards
Section 1. The Board of Directors shall plan the
affairs of the Society and shall be empowered to transact any business not
involving change of policy of this Society.
In the event of a vacancy, the Board of Directors shall elect a member
to fill the unexpired term.
Section 2. The Board of Directors shall coordinate the
affairs of this Society with those of the American Rose Society, maintaining
the Society’s affiliation with the American Rose Society. This board shall secure the judges for
Horticulture. The Chairman of this
board shall meet with judges prior to Rose Shows for orientation and
instructions.
ARTICLE X
Meetings
Section 1. Meetings shall be held on the designated
Saturday of each month at 10:00 a.m., unless otherwise provided. Summer meetings shall be arranged in the
form of garden tours at which no business shall be transacted, unless prior
notice has been given.
Section 2. The Board of Directors shall meet prior to
regular meetings unless otherwise provided; time and place to be determined by
the President.
Section 3. The December meeting shall be the annual
banquet at which time the officers shall be installed.
ARTICLE XI
Quorum
Section 1. A quorum for any regular meeting shall
consist of a majority of those present of the active members of this Society.
Section 2. A quorum for any meeting of the Board of
Directors shall consist of a majority of those present members.
ARTICLE XII
Committees
Section 1. A
Nominating Committee of three members shall be named at the October
meeting. The chairman shall be
appointed by the President, the remaining two being elected from the
floor. This committee shall present a
slate of suitable candidates for officers at the November meeting. Nominations from the floor are in order at
this time. Any member of the Nominating
Committee is eligible to serve as an officer.
Section 2. The President, with the approval of the
Board of Directors, shall appoint the Standing Committee Chairmen.
Section 3. The
Standing Committees shall be Hospitality, Horticulture, Telephone, News,
Publications, Historian, and Rose Show Chairman.
Section 4. The
terms of all committees shall expire on December 31st, if not on a
specified prior date.
ARTICLE XIII
Dues
Section 1. Each individual member of “double
membership,” such as husband-wife, sister-brother, etc. (under same household),
shall pay annual dues of $15.00 for membership in this Society, or they may pay
$52.00 entitling them to membership in the American Rose Society, as well as
this Society.
Section 2. Dues shall be payable as of January 1st
and not later than March 1stor, in the case of new embers, when
billed by the Treasurer.
ARTICLE XIV
Publication
Section 1. There shall be an informative publication
to be known as The Coastal Rose whose editor shall be appointed by the
President and who shall serve for two years and be eligible for reappointment.
Section 2. The Coastal Rose (newsletter) shall
be issued as a matter of policy, but the editor may combine issues for certain
months at his/her discretion.
ARTICLE XV
Shows and Exhibits
Section 1. A rose show shall be held each year on a
date to be determined by the Board of Directors not later than February. The Board of Directors shall secure the
judges for horticulture at this time.
Section 2. All shows shall be open to members in good
standing of this Society or of any other Society or Club in good standing as
recognized by the American Rose Society.
Section 3. The Show Chairman shall establish separate
classes for nonmembers and novices to be eligible for any award except District
and National.
Section 4. To encourage active attendance, a
“Challenge” class may be established by the Schedule Chairman, eligible to
members attending five or more meetings from one show date until the next. A permanent trophy should be given in this
class.
Section 5. All shows shall be under the direction of
the Board of Directors and the Show Committee Chairman, appointed by the
President.
Section 6. Informal competition may be held at the
discretion of the Board of Directors.
ARTICLE XVI
Parliamentary Authority
Section 1. “Robert’s Rule of Order, Revised” shall
govern the Society in all cases to which they are applicable and in which they
are not inconsistent with the Bylaws and the special Rules of Order of this
Society.
Section 2. In any case where these Bylaws conflict
with the Bylaws of the American Rose Society, the latter shall prevail.
ARTICLE XVII
Section 1. These Bylaws may be amended at any regular
meeting of the Society by a two-thirds vote of those present and voting,
provided written notice has been given the membership.
RULES OF ORDER
1.
Call to Order
2.
Reading and Disposition
of the minutes.
3.
Treasurer’s Report.
4.
Admission of new
members.
5.
Reports of Officers.
6.
Reports of Boards (Board
of Directors).
7.
Reports of Standing
Committees.
8.
Nomination and election
of Officers (November only).
9.
Unfinished business.
10. Reading of communications by Secretary or Presdient.
11. New Business.
12. Program
13. Installation of Officers (December only).
14. Adjournment.
Purchasing
Roses
Since we are all still
dreaming of next year’s garden, we are repeating the list of rose growers who
may be able to offer you varieties you want, but can’t find locally.
US Vendors
Amity
Heritage Roses - San Jose, CA
Antique
Rose Emporium - Benham, TX
